Winter Coats To Last You Forever

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Winter Coats To Last You Forever

2 September 2015

Some investments are risky. Others, like these coats, should be leapt upon with determination .

It will come as no surprise to many familiar to those diurnal movements commonly referred to as “the seasons” that, this winter, coats are on-trend. Of course they are. It’s going to be cold. But before you scoff and click “back”, do give us a chance to explain. The prevailing style consensus is not towards just any kind of coat, but variations on a classic, straight-cut, knee-length style (commonly referred to as a Crombie or chesterfield) that, thanks to its sharp and timeless design, will weather the seasons as well as it will the imminent and adverse weather conditions. In short, the following garments, from Burberry Prorsum’s Bohemian shawl-collared variety to Brunello Cucinelli’s peerlessly luxurious number in cashmere and silk, all fall under that much-desired category of “investment” clothing. Only this time, the investment is particularly wise: get one this year, wear it next year – this is one piece that will never go out of style.

A short French lesson: bouclé, derived from the verb boucler (which means to be curled or to complete), refers to a certain kind of fabric woven from looped yarns, giving it an overwhelmingly rich texture. Being firmly associated with the type of Parisian couture proposed by Ms Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in the 1920s, it’s less often mentioned in the same breath as menswear – but this is a fact that the city’s latest pioneer Berluti is seeking to redress with this coat. Wear it proudly, and, by constantly saying, “oh yes, it’s bouclé”, pass on a shred of your learning to your peers.

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Mr Christopher Bailey’s oversized, shearling-stuffed, lavishly Bohemian AW15 collection was full of the kind of pieces you might expect to see in a film from Mr Wes Anderson — the above coat being suitable for checking in at The Grand Budapest Hotel. With its rich, dark caramel colour and wide shearling shawl-collar, it will work wonderfully as the cornerstone of the 1970s-tinged look, which is a major trend for the coming season. Wear with a retro cardigan and loose tee to complete the picture.

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You can always rely on Calvin Klein Collection’s Mr Italo Zucchelli for a certain level of geometric rigour and pleasing, architectural simplicity and this grid jacquard coat from the brand’s AW15 collection proves no exception to that rule. Based on a classic raincoat shape, it’s executed in light wool, meaning it’s warm but not too bulky to layer over a suit jacket. If you’re a city slicker that will be on the go this winter — or a fastidious graphic designer who will only wear things covered in guides — this is the coat for you. Play up the pattern by wearing with a checked shirt and sharp, black trousers.

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The camel-coloured coat is a timeless classic. In the wrong hands, of course, this can result in a look that’s a little bit too 1940s (or, more pertinently, a little bit too The Godfather). But Mr Tomas Maier’s latest variation on the archetype for Bottega Veneta avoids all such pitfalls, affecting a more modern attitude with its soft, sloping shoulders and three-quarter-length design. This will work as well with casual ensembles (cf, Mr Kanye West’s camel-coat-and-hoodie look of early 2014) as it will with tailoring. However, if you’re choosing a suit, go for something lighter, with burgundy shoes. It looks less self-consciously business-like.

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Tailoring from deconstructionist Parisian fashion brand Maison Margiela, is recognisable by a few devilish details. Shoulders tend to be slightly sharpened, lapels are puckishly peaked and front closures are often set low for a loose, rakish feel. The above coat is executed in a herringbone wool that mixes a range of earthy hues for an overall grey effect. These hallmarks are adopted with gusto, resulting in a garment that is perfectly suitable for the office, but will also be able to carry over into slightly more rebellious activities. Transform into a stylish renegade on the weekend by pairing it with distressed jeans and a print shirt from Saint Laurent.

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Sometimes you want a coat to look smart. Sometimes you’d rather it protected you from the cold. But then again, sometimes it’s all just about how it feels – this latest offering from father-son design duo Casely-Hayford being the pertinent example. With its extravagant bouclé texture and generous dimensions, this is more like a wearable hug than a coat, and should be dressed down accordingly. Imagine stepping out on a winter’s morning to get coffee and croissants (or perhaps paracetamol) wearing this with a cashmere jumper and some high-end sweatpants.

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This silk and cashmere herringbone coat from Brunello Cucinelli makes MR PORTER imagine a leisurely walk on a crisp winter afternoon. Also, the idea of having our own grounds (preferably with manicured gardens, fountains and lots of lovely marble steps) on which to make this walk. In short, this, like so many of Mr Cucinelli’s superlative pieces, is about casual luxury — of the sort that the Italians seem to do best. Complete the look with a sporty zip sweater from Loro Piana, worn over an impeccable white shirt.

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