THE JOURNAL

Mr Tim Burgess on stage at the Benicàssim Music Festival, 20 July 2014. Photograph by Ms Gaelle Beri/Redferns via Getty Images
While most of his contemporaries have settled comfortably into the nostalgia circuit, indie elder statesman Mr Tim Burgess is still creating culture at a rate – and with an enthusiastic energy – that shames people half his age. As lead singer of The Charlatans, he has helmed a band who have defied easy pigeonholing since 1990’s organ-driven breakthrough hit “The Only One I Know”. Adjacent to Madchester, but with a more pure pop sensibility; prefiguring Britpop, but without the knowing cynicism; in love with the Laurel Canyon sound, but not a retro act.
As well as the band’s 13 (and counting) bestselling albums, Burgess has released five solo albums, most recently 2020’s I Love The New Sky. Along the way, he’s worked with various members of Primal Scream, My Bloody Valentine, The Horrors and Ladyhawke. On top of that, he’s launched a coffee brand, inspired a breakfast cereal and written two acclaimed memoirs.
Lockdown proved another creative opportunity. He set up his hugely popular Twitter Listening Parties, takeovers of his Twitter account by an array of notable musicians, from Sir Paul McCartney to Iron Maiden, who talked in granular detail through a real-time listening session of a seminal album. The success of this project has inspired his book, The Listening Party, in which 100 artists, bands and fans reflect on their favourite albums.
When we catch up, Mr Burgess is on an unofficial book-signing tour to promote the new release. “Just popping into stores, peeling the stickers off the books and putting some sweet messages in there.”
Now 54, Burgess has retained the wide smile, high cheekbones and fulsome mop of hair that adorned the back cover of 1990’s Some Friendly album. Throughout his career, he has steadily played with his image, swerving the orthodoxies of indie in favour of something that draws more on Mr Andy Warhol, Mr Lou Reed and the garage bands of 1960s Los Angeles.
Burgess’ love of sartorial experimentation started during his childhood in Northwich, Cheshire. “I was a very young punk,” he says. “I was 10 when I saw ‘Automatic Lover’ by The Vibrators on Top Of The Pops. Me and my friends declared ourselves punks that day. But I did want a parka as well. I was 12 when two-tone came out. The Jam’s ‘Going Underground’ was number one… It was a great time for music and fashion.”
Burgess had an unlikely assistant during those first forays into style. “I was dedicated to being a punk, so my mum took my cricket trousers and put zips all over them for me,” he says. “And they were the best by a mile of anybody’s bondage trousers.”
Once he was old enough to travel into nearby Manchester, wider horizons opened up. “Afflecks Palace underground market had all these fantastic emporiums for music and punk clothes,” he says. “They weren’t Vivienne Westwood originals, but they were rip-offs of the Destroy T-shirt. It wasn’t on my doorstep, so I think I found it more exhilarating,”
As his band came together, the rich brew of fashion types who populated the city – from the Perry boys, a distinctly local variant of the football casual, to a factory worker colleague with a diamond tooth and paisley flares – informed his aesthetic. “I think people in Manchester perfected the kind of look where your head’s down and you’re just sort of skulking around from alleyway to alleyway getting up to no good,” he says.
01.
1960s West Coast rock revival

The Charlatans in Los Angeles, 1990. Photograph by Mr Tom Sheehan
“We looked like classic 1966 Los Angeles there. Could be The Byrds walking up to the Whisky A Go Go”
“I love this picture so much. I’ve actually never seen it before. I think we look really good as a band. I know what I was thinking and why I wanted to look like that. There’s a film by The Monkees called Head and the opening scene is Mickey Dolenz jumping into San Francisco Bay and drowning. And that look was pretty much taken from him, although the tartan would have been a nod to the punk thing as well.
“I think it was about the second or third time we’d been to LA. I was wearing hippie beads and the T-shirt was a Fred Perry in a kind of small mesh fabric, with the really fine corduroy jacket. We were definitely going to Melrose Avenue at that time, the thrift stores, but I’d suggest we looked like classic 1966 Los Angeles there, especially Jon Baker and Rob [Collins] and John Brookes’ hair. Could be The Byrds walking up to the Whisky A Go Go, you know?”
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02.
Britpop parkas

Mr Tim Burgess arriving at at Knebworth, where The Charlatans supported Oasis, 1996. Photograph by Mr Tom Sheehan
“That’s a big Spiewak jacket. Very ‘cagoule’. It was certainly the look of the time”
“Arriving at Knebworth, that’s a big Spiewak jacket. Very ‘cagoule’. It was certainly the look of the time. For the actual show, I had something quite 1970s looking on, a kind of velvet shirt that was probably opened up one button too many. I don’t have chest hair, but, in my mind, I would have been pretending to reveal some.
“Obviously, Oasis were a huge band then and they’d asked us to play. But there were lots of bands that were there over the two nights I felt I had an affinity with. And it wasn’t just the Manic Street Preachers. It was The Chemical Brothers and Prodigy. Even though we were all completely different, we all kind of recognised each other. It does show that there was more variety back then than people would’ve imagined.”
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03.
Vintage leather

Mr Tim Burgess performing at the Astoria, 18 October 2008. Photograph by Mr Dean Chalkley/Camera Press
“That jacket was a homage to Bernard Sumner. Someone said it actually was Bernard’s, but I don’t know whether that’s true or not”
“I remember that show very well. I met Ladyhawke before I went on stage and we decided that we were going to work together on my solo album, so that was really exciting. That leather jacket was a homage to [New Order’s] Bernard Sumner during the ‘Thieves Like Us’ period. It’s a vintage leather. Someone said it actually was Bernard’s, but I don’t know whether that’s true or not. It’s hung up at The Charlatans’ studio. It’s part of our archive. It doesn’t even have a label inside any more, just loads of my old tour passes.
“On the bottom, it was classic 501s and brown brogues. Douglas Hart from The Jesus And Mary Chain had told me where to get the jeans from, a secondhand place in London. The hair was back to my bowl head, but this was a very dark brown. It was a more moody kind of thing than the blonde bob now. The look reflected the music. We’d just done a track called ‘You Cross My Path’, which was quite angry.
“With a jacket like that, it’s got to be secondhand. I don’t know whether it’s my age or not, but for me to wear something crisp and brand new, it reminds me of getting a brand-new leather jacket when I was a kid. I spent a long time putting studs in it and writing ‘Discharge’ on the back. GBH, Crass, Conflict… anything with a kind of angry name that works for the teenage brain.”
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04.
Bleached blond hair

Mr Tim Burgess on stage at the Benicàssim Music Festival, 20 July 2014. Photograph by Ms Gaelle Beri/Redferns via Getty Images
“If I’m doing my hair myself, then I hate it for a few weeks because it just looks like a helmet”
“With the hair like that, it can get really dry. I’m learning all the time, so I’m always taking tips from people, oils and things to make it less dry. And hair straighteners are pretty good, but I don’t iron it super-straight. I have to have a little bit of a kink in there. I love it when the roots are showing by about two inches. I think it looks great. If I’m doing it myself, then I hate it for a few weeks because it just looks like a helmet, so if I go and get it done by a professional, I ask them to leave a tiniest little bit of root showing.
“That’s a kind of painter’s jacket. It’s a vintage one – I’ve had that for so long, maybe 15 years, and it just felt right to be wearing it with my hair like that. It’s really old, but I felt that it’d be nice to stick to a classic look. On stage, I have to feel like I can move freely. And you can see it in a photo like that. It doesn’t look static at all. Put it this way, I’ve certainly never ironed anything and I wouldn’t want that kind of stiffness in how people perceive me.”
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05.
Plain white T-shirts

The Charlatans backstage at Glastonbury, 2015. Photograph by Mr Derek Bremner/NME
“If I find any old stock of these T-shirts, I’ll be buying 10 at a time”
“The plain white T-shirt is pretty much a great look for me onstage. There’s a lot of people at those shows. I’ve got to think of the people at the back, so if the lights are on me, I’m definitely illuminated. I was quite sad when American Apparel closed down. If I find any old stock, I’ll be buying, like, 10 white T-shirts at a time. There’s also an American Apparel necklace of a little dinosaur that my son really liked.
“I still have that beautiful jacket from Rains. I think a lot of people were wearing them that year. And with sunglasses, they were often cheap ones. I’m actually a glasses wearer, so if I do wear sunglasses I can’t really see. When I was in Los Angeles and driving around a lot, that was a problem, so I started getting prescription sunglasses made up. I really like Ace & Tate at the moment.”
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06.
Workwear and Dr. Martens

Mr Tim Burgess in London, January 2019.Photograph by Ms Vanessa Heins
“I just liked the idea of a boilersuit. Whether it’s Steve Albini-influenced or just the idea of wearing workman gear, I’m not sure”
“This is white socks, white American Apparel T-shirt, corduroy boilersuit and Dr. Martens. I just liked the idea of a boilersuit. Whether it’s Steve Albini-influenced, which it possibly is, or whether it’s just the idea of wearing workman gear, I’m not sure, although yesterday I interviewed John Grant and I called myself a conversation mechanic because I was the interviewer and he liked that even though it’s cheesy as fuck.
“The DMs were brand new and probably hurting my feet at the time. I forget about having to wear them in. I think it hurts more now than it ever did. Maybe my skin’s softer or something as I’m now in my fifties. But if someone gives them to me, they’re so beautiful to look at and so classic, that I think I have to do it. When I’m out like this, people just talk to me all the time. I don’t know whether they recognise me. I don’t think they do. I think they just want to talk to me.”
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The Listening Party: Artists, Bands And Fans Relfect On 100 Favourite Albums by Mr Tim Burgess is out now