THE JOURNAL

SAINT LAURENT SS23 runway. Photograph courtesy of SAINT LAURENT
Pity the V-neck. Characterised by nothing more than the triangular shape of its neckline, it has become something of a sartorial pariah. When you google V-necks now, one of the first search suggestions is “out of style”. That’s very possibly because throughout the 2000s the deep-V became associated with men who waxed and polished their chests as though they were cars, and seemingly worked on their incline bench press specifically so they could wear the pec-baring garment, creating a symbiotic relationship between V-necks and bad taste (Davidoff Cool Water, anyone?). And so it was consigned to style Siberia.
But like the much-maligned Crocs, cargo pants and wraparound sunglasses before it, the deep V-neck is swaggering back into style. You can bet with confidence that what is abysmally unfashionable this year will nearly always get a revamp for the next – fashion designers love a challenge. V-necks have been showing up with increasing frequency over the past few years, but so far it’s been a tentative trend on the fringes of fashion rather than something to be taken too seriously. But, perhaps thankfully, the deep Vs we’re seeing now are a tad more sophisticated. Certainly at the SS23 menswear shows, it made a comeback that was decidedly more LOEWE-clad intelligentsia than Love Island contestant.
The best new deep Vs are (perhaps thankfully) not T-shirts, but knitwear. A case in point was Dries Van Noten, who showed a suave deep-V that stretched nearly down to the navel. It has all the preppy charm of cricket or tennis sweater, but with a sleeker, more cosmopolitan edge that would be much more at home in the city than on the playing field.

From left to right: Dries Van Noten SS23 runway; photograph by IMAXTREE.COM. Etro SS23 runway; photograph by IMAXTREE.COM. AMI PARIS SS23 runway; photograph by IMAXTREE.COM. LOEWE SS23 runway; photograph by Mr Carlo Scarpato/IMAXTREE.COM. CELINE HOMME SS23 runway; photograph by Mr Filippo Fior/IMAXTREE.COM
Also see Etro. Somewhat of a seasoned V-neck peddler for the past few seasons, the brand also upped the stakes with their V-necks for SS23 and showed huge, clavicle-baring sweaters that in some cases dangled off the shoulder. Then AMI PARIS showed a very wearable Argyle V-neck, and SAINT LAURENT kept things typically rock ’n’ roll with a sheer V-neck that plunged to below the solar plexus.
But where has this renewed interest in the deep-V come from? Have the industry’s designers been secretly meeting with the former members of JLS in a plot to bring them back? Perhaps the male chest, which is enjoying plenty of time in the sun recently, is to blame. Tank tops and cut-outs are everywhere, as is the recent (but enduring) rise of the shirtless suit.
In terms of how you wear one yourself, the most stylish way is with nothing underneath (though take styling tips from Etro and accessorise with a necklace or neckerchief to stop looking underdressed). Wales Bonner makes excellent cashmere V-necks, while Gucci offers a slightly preppier take on the look. Whomever is to blame for its return, the deep-V is here to stay, so you may as well get used to it. Oh, and get that chest wax booked in.