THE JOURNAL
Restaurant by OMA at Château des Fleurs. Photograph by Mr Tripper, courtesy of Château des Fleurs
Heading to Paris this winter? For opulent interiors that are steeped in lore and glamour, check into the Ritz. If it’s effortless sophistication and second-to-none service you’re after, try Le Bristol. That’s not to mention the palatial setting of the Hôtel de Crillon, the museum-level art collection of the Royal Monceau, nor the world-class wellness amenities of the newly opened, LVMH-owned Cheval Blanc. In short, the city’s expansive avenues and boulevards are brimming with larger-than-life luxury hotels that leave those with a taste for the finer things, and deep pockets to match, spoilt for choice.
But between all those big hitters, there are small-but-perfectly formed properties that champion style and charm. In past couple years alone, the French capital has multiplied its portfolio of boutique gems, with hotels kitted out by the coolest names in design and offering a level of intimacy you won’t find at a Four Seasons. And while there are no uniformed doormen or butlers, that doesn’t mean luxury is in short supply – not if Frette towels, mid-century furnishings and restaurants led by Michelin-starred chefs are the sort of fare that tickles your fancy. From Montmartre to Saint-Germain, here we’ve rounded up seven stylish stays with buckets of personality that are worth checking into this winter.
01.
Hôtel Rochechouart
Entrance of Hôtel Rochechouart
Restaurant bar at Hôtel Rochechouart. Photographs by Mr Cyril Duchene, courtesy of Orso Hotels
In an unexpected turn of events, the notoriously seedy Pigalle (home to all the most legendary cabaret clubs) has slowly emerged as one of Paris’s chicest quartiers – so much so that it became the destination de choix for Soho House’s first members’ club in the city. It’s in this neighbourhood that the design-forward Orso Group also decided to locate the achingly stylish Hôtel Rochechouart, a sleek and romantic stay set in an eight-storey Art Deco mansion that invites guests to step back in time. Deliberately nostalgic in feel, the hotel has been kitted out with sleek furniture that evokes the jazz age, with in-room bar carts and vintage lamps, and plays up its restored original features, such as the marble staircase and glass elevator.
On the ground floor, an old-world brasserie, complete with a mirrored Art Deco bar, serves unfussy French classics such as filet de boeuf, steak tartare and crème brûlée. And if that wasn’t enough, guests can also settle into the velvet-clad Mikado Dancing, a just-restored low-lit nightclub in the basement that originally dates back to the Roaring Twenties, or head next door to Citrons et Huîtres for oysters. Bedrooms and suites, meanwhile are cosy yet elegant, cast in warm but muted tones. If you can, do your best to snag one with an unbeatable view onto the Sacré-Cœur.
What to pack
02.
La Fantaisie
Golden Poppy restaurant at La Fantaisie
Suite Terrasse at La Fantaisie. Photographs by Mr Jérome Galland, courtesy of La Fantaisie
This year, hotel design legend Mr Martin Brudzinski has turned his hand to not one but two brilliant new hotels in Paris: Le Grand Mazarin in Le Marais and La Fantaisie in Faubourg Montmartre. The latter, which sits on the tiny rue Cadet, is built around an exquisite garden, from which the décor also draws inspiration – a panoply of soft colours and floral prints, albeit rendered in a way that feels fresh and un-chintzy.
Service here is exceptional – the sort you’d expect at something twice as grand – and there’s a painstaking attention to detail that extends to even the smallest elements: the room keys, the stationery, the most thoughtfully curated mini bar stocked with CBD drops and vegan chocolate. However, for all its charms, the hotel’s crowning glory is no doubt its blockbuster restaurant, Golden Poppy, led by Ms Dominique Crenn, the only woman to hold three Michelin stars in the US. It serves innovative California-infused twists on Japanese cuisine and merits a visit even if you won’t be staying the night.
What to pack
03.
Château Voltaire
Exterior of Château Voltaire
Lobby Lounge at Château Voltaire. Photographs by Mr François Halard, courtesy of Château Voltaire
Since its high-profile opening, the fashion crowd has been flocking to the effortlessly refined Château Voltaire, which easily takes the cake for the coolest spot to bed down in Paris right now. But, then again, what else would you expect from a hotel founded by Mr Thierry Gillier, the brains behind fashion label Zadig & Voltaire, in partnership with Mr Franck Durand, the acclaimed creative director of Holiday magazine?
Located in the first arrondissement, between Opéra and the Tuileries, Château Voltaire is housed behind an elegant white façade. It comprises three adjoined buildings from different eras, with airy interiors that create a sense of light and space in this 32-room joint. Decor is an eclectic but considered mix, pairing crafty with sleek and antique with new, while the cosmopolitan brasserie, Emil, serves Mediterranean-inspired dishes that have earned a stamp of approval from the parisiens (and is often booked out in advance). It’s in the hidden-away La Coquille d’Or bar that the team has really ramped up the glamour, creating a sensual and moody cocoon of black lacquer where guests can start – or end – their night with a cocktail. Elsewhere, chic details and amenities such as rare photography books and a perfectly curated mini bar make for a five-star stay that’s as thoughtful as it is handsome.
What to pack
04.
Hôtel de la Boétie
Chambre Classique at Hôtel de la Boétie
The lounge at Hôtel de la Boétie. Photograph by Mr Simon Brown, courtesy of Hôtel de la Boétie
The quirky Hôtel de la Boétie is the latest offering from the rapidly expanding Touriste group, which has masterminded a handful of unique properties across Paris, each with its own unmistakable design script. This time around, founder Mr Adrien Gloaguen joins forces with buzzy Swedish interiors whizz Ms Beata Heuman, who has parlayed her signature playful style into something straight out of a film by Mr Wes Anderson. Like most Touriste hotels, it’s incredibly petite, but certainly no less punchy for it. Rather, maximalism is the modus operandi here, with sugary pink sheets clashed against forest-green carpets, mustard, pale blue or navy walls (depending on your floor) and a vibrant hand-spun tapestry in the place of a headboard.
Head downstairs and you’ll find a light-filled blonde-wood canteen, which serves a help-yourself continental-style breakfast (including a top-notch selection of cheeses). Plus, there’s a compact private dining room-cum-library adorned with design books and vintage exhibition posters. And if you’re looking to tick off the city’s most famous landmarks on your trip, Boétie can’t be beaten on location, sitting just a short walk away from the Champs-Elysée in the shadow of the Arc de Triomphe.
What to pack
05.
Pavillon Faubourg
Entrance of Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain
Deluxe room at the Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain. Photographs by Mr Jérome Galland, courtesy of Pavillon Faubourg Saint-Germain
Pavillon Faubourg makes no secret of its illustrious former resident, one Mr James Joyce. It was at this address on the rue de Pre aux Clercs that the Irish novelist completed his magnum opus, Ulysses. Today, the five-star hotel houses a clubby wood-panelled bar bearing his name. Though steeped in literary history (Mr TS Eliot also lived here), Faubourg stops short of being a time capsule. Instead, it marries parquet flooring, lanterns and Art Deco details with decidedly contemporary notes, such as matte black fittings and curved seating. It’s also home to an impressive library brimming with French literary classics published by Gallimard, plus a Joyce-inspired eatery, The Parisiens (a nod to the Dubliners), led by one-star chef Mr Thibault Sombardier.
The flagship suite – the James Joyce, no less – is by far the best room in the house, a roomy attic space on the top floor boasting panoramic views across the city’s rooftops. Although, if you can pull yourself away from its plush comforts for just a second, be sure to head down to the cellar, which reveals a serene spa set-up, complete with a plunge pool, massage rooms and a fitness studio, right in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Pres.
What to pack
06.
Château des Fleurs
Exterior of Château des Fleurs
Restaurant by OMA at Château des Fleurs. Photographs by Mr Tripper, courtesy of Château des Fleurs
The newest hotel on our list, Château des Fleurs on rue Vernet is, first and foremost, a masterclass in considered restoration. Led by Barcelona-based design firm Quintana Partners, the 1910 gem has been transported into the present-day all while lovingly preserving its magnificent original features. In keeping with the belle époque aura, furnishings and fittings are delightfully old-world – think fringed velvet armchairs and bobbin-framed bookshelves. For maximal space, check into one of the Corner Suites, with its freestanding tubs and floor-to-ceiling windows, or settle into the Deluxe Junior, a cosy cave cast in warm hues of ochre and rust that’s split across two floors.
Rather unexpectedly for its compact size, the hotel boasts its own spa in partnership with Omnisens, which delivers heavy-hitting treatments, as well as a tiled plunge pool and gym. Equally, cuisine is no light matter here (it’s part of Relais & Châteaux family, after all), with a restaurant headed up by top Korean-born chef Ms Ji-Hye Park promising East Asian dishes that are sure to wow.
What to pack
07.
Nuage
Entrance of Nuage
Superior room at Nuage. Photographs courtesy of Nuage
Scandinavian in design and ethos, Nuage (French for “cloud”) in the 8th arrondissement is catnip for the Kinfolk crowd. A pocked-sized temple to “the art of slow living”, the 27-room hotel seeks to provide a sanctuary from the bustling city streets with minimally rendered interiors, all soft earthy tones, crisp whites and pale wood furnishings (much of it custom). And at its centre sits an atrium that’s bathed in natural light, where guests can curl up with a book, tuck into tea and a snack each afternoon or simply lounge about and indulge in a game of backgammon.
If it all sounds a little too wholesome, however, then rest assured there’s still plenty of fun to be had here. Most notably, the hotel houses its own private screening room that showcases a broad selection of films, plus there’s a programme of cultural happenings, including live music and talks. Ready to venture out? Hit up the concierge who’s on hand to help plan bespoke trips, whether you’re keen on river cruises or trawling the flea markets. And where most boutique stays are built solely with grown-ups in mind, Nuage promises to be a family-friendly affair, with plenty to keep little ones entertained.