THE JOURNAL
We try not to use the word too liberally, but the Pilot’s Watch range from IWC Schaffhausen really is nothing short of iconic. Don’t just take our word for it, though. “When I think pilot’s watch, I think IWC,” says renowned watch collector Mr Justin Hast. “No maker comes close in terms of heritage and innovation.”
The direct descendant of aeronautical tools used in WWII – IWC was one of five watchmakers contracted to manufacture them – the modern-day Pilot’s watch retains much of the “cockpit instrument” design language that defined the original, including a faithfully recreated set of numerals and that signature triangular marker at 12 o’ clock.
“IWC has transformed the Pilot’s family into perhaps its most diverse and progressive lineup”
But don’t be fooled, as this is no retro throwback. Over the last couple of decades IWC has transformed the Pilot’s family into perhaps its most diverse and progressive lineup, introducing advanced materials such as Ceratanium, adding chronographs, perpetual calendars and other complications to the range, and expanding the target market with new, wrist-friendly sizes – all while staying true to its military tool-watch roots.
All this has seen the Pilot’s range soar in popularity. “[They] have transferred across into the world of culture,” says Hast. “Watches that used to ensure accurate operations at altitude are now seen on terra firma making statements in the worlds of music, sport and art. You only need to catch a glance at the iconic onion crown of a Big Pilot popping from under a cuff across a room to know what makes this family of watches so special.”
But with all this choice, where does an aspiring collector start? To answer that, we asked Hast to walk us through the modern-day Pilot’s Watch lineup and pick out a few personal highlights.
01. The chronographs
A natural addition to any aeronautical watch, the chronograph – a stopwatch, in layman’s terms – is well-represented in IWC’s Pilot’s range with a broad range of models, case diameters, dial colours, materials and bracelet options. Hast has opted to highlight this 41mm model with a striking sea-green face. With its removable polished-steel bracelet and its neither too bulky nor too dainty dimensions, it’s the all-rounder qualities of this watch that appeal. “With a versatile combination of quick-change strap, steel 41mm case and day-and-date window, this green dial Pilot could really be the one-watch collection,” he says.
02. The perpetual calendars
Keeping track of minutes, seconds, hours, days, months and even the phases of the moon, the perpetual calendar is a fiendishly complex piece of watchmaking that needs a roomy case and plenty of real estate on the dial to truly shine. A natural companion, then, to the generously proportioned Big Pilot, which is perhaps the truest reproduction, in size at least, of the original WWII-era flight watches. This Rodeo Drive edition – named after one of the watchmaker’s boutiques in Los Angeles – boasts a sleek, contemporary appearance thanks to the black ceramic case and webbing strap, but it’s the calibre inside that’s the star of the show. “Invented by the legendary watchmaker Kurt Klaus, the single-crown perpetual calendar is celebrated by other manufacturers and collectors alike,” says Hast. “Combined with the ceramic case – which again IWC pioneered with the original 3705 of the early 1990s – this Big Pilot is the definition of stealth vibes.”
03. The automatics
The Pilot’s Watch family has expanded over the years to cater to all tastes, but what if you aren’t fussed about chronograph sub-dials, GMT hands, power reserves and moonphase indicators? Don’t fret, because IWC has plenty to offer those who prefer a simpler, more minimal dial, including the Pilot’s Mark XX – a faithfully updated rendition of a watch produced in the late 1940s for the Royal Air Force, the Mark 11 – and the newly shrunken Big Pilot. But which to choose? Hast recommends going for something with a bit of character in a case material that’ll age well. “As clichéd as it may sound, a watch should tell a story,” he explains. “That patina that comes with a few years of wear is what makes a watch come alive. And there simply isn’t a material in all of watchmaking that does this better than bronze.” Step forward the new Big Pilot’s Spitfire in its smaller, 43mm size and a bronze case and green dial configuration. “Over time the case will age with you, and I would challenge anyone to combine this finish with a nicer green dial. And all of this in a recently reduced 43mm case size and with a stripped-back dial layout – don’t worry, the seven-day power reserve is still available on the 46mm Big Pilots – what’s not to love about it?”
04. The other complications
What makes the IWC Pilot’s Watch family unique among other heritage military watch collections isn’t just where it came from but where it’s going. Charged with the responsibility of maintaining such an important piece of horological history, other watchmakers might opt to simply preserve; IWC, on the other hand, innovates. The lineup is constantly being refreshed with new materials, styles, colours, sizes and even complications, such as new Annual Calendar models – which only require a date change in February – and this Timezoner, which comes complete with a world timer complication for rapid time adjustment while travelling. “As watch lovers we love a chronograph to endlessly fiddle with, a moon phase to gaze at or even, for some, a minute repeater to hear chime,” says Hast. “The Timezoner isn’t just a delight but a truly useful complication. With just a turn of the bezel, the hands automatically adjust to the city you are in. Not just innovation for innovation’s sake but a complication you will absolutely use.”