THE JOURNAL
Hirafu Village, Niseko. Photograph by Mr Alister Buckingham/Niesko Tourism
Finally, Japan is open to international tourists again. After two and a half years of extreme travel restrictions (as a response to the Covid pandemic), it’s a great time to consider visiting. But where exactly to go?
The so-called “Golden Route” of Tokyo and Kyoto is a well-trodden and worthy trip. But for travellers seeking out a less predictable side of the country, look to Hokkaido. Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido is an expansive land of picturesque forest glades and variegated flower fields, with a restaurant scene smattered with Michelin stars and some of the best snow sports on the planet.
The biggest city in Hokkaido is Sapporo, famous for its snow sculpture festival and eponymous beer, but almost 100km to the west lies the lively town of Niseko. With its powder-covered vistas, restorative hot springs, and wealth of bars and restaurants, it’s one of the most interesting places to visit in northern Japan. Niseko is also the place to go for skiing and snowboarding on the island thanks to the superior quality of its snow, which is maintained thanks to winds from Siberia that keep temperatures around -7ºC (19ºF) throughout the ski season.
Still, there’s plenty to do in Niseko beyond sliding down the mountain, from soul-warming sake to some of the most beautiful hot springs in Japan. Below, a guide to some of the best things to discover in Niseko. Fair warning: you’ll probably want to pack some layers.
01.
Where to stay
The Penthouse at Setsu Niseko, Hokkaido. Photograph by Mr Aaron Jamieson, courtesy of Setsu Niseko
With a spoil of well-heeled hotels scattered throughout its snowy hills, and a new Aman property slated to open its doors here in the next year or two, Niseko is a solid destination for luxury hunters. Most of the best hotels are concentrated in Hirafu, a bustling ski-town widely regarded as the main area of Niseko that sits in the shadow of the magnificent Mount Yōtei. The Sansui, a sleek and convenient ski-in/ski-out outpost, is the stylish new kid on the block, while its neighbour Intuition, with its tasteful interiors and wildly good scenery, is probably the most luxurious hotel in the area.
The Setsu is also worth a visit in Hirafu; as well as spectacular views of the mountain, the staff there work hard to tailor each stay to be the best possible. Finally, a little further north of Hirafu is Shiguchi. A paean to modern and antique art and craftsmanship (and with an on-site art gallery), it’s the place to go if you want a more traditional Japanese experience. Taking its name from the centuries-old Japanese joinery technique, it has five distinct villas each with their own private onsen.
02.
Where to ski
View from Mount Iwanai. Photograph by Mr Chris Burkard, courtesy of Iwani Resort
Europe has the Alps; the US has Aspen; and Japan has Niseko. The town’s skiing resort is made up of four main areas: Hirafu, Hanazono, Niseko Village and Annupuri. All four places are connected by ski-lifts and are accessible through the “All Mountain Pass”.
The aforementioned Hirafu (also known as Grand Hirafu) is the most popular area – think of it as the Courchevel of Japan – and is especially busy in January. While Annupuri and Hanazono are seen as the quieter of the four, every place has a range of slopes for beginner families to more serious skiers.
For diehard powder hounds, or large experienced groups, the unbeatable skiing experience has to be taking a snowcat up to Mount Iwanai. Forty minutes from Niseko, it’s an incredible way to experience untouched Hokkaido powder and ski on untracked lines all day, before retiring to the cat for a welcome sip of Sapporo.
03.
Where to drink
Niseko Distillery, Hokkaido. Photograph courtesy of Niseko Distillery Co., Ltd
Anyone familiar with Japan’s enthusiastic drinking culture won’t be disappointed to learn that it also extends to the country’s aprés-ski. The Barn by Odin and Mick’s are worth a visit to warm your cockles after a day on the slopes, but the best watering hole in Niseko is is Bar Gyu+. A ski-town speakeasy hidden behind a Coca-Cola vending machine set in a wall of snow, it’s the area’s oldest cocktail bar and is the place to go for a nightcap and occasional live music.
Niseko’s unique topography, nestled as it is between Mount Yōtei and Mount Annupuri, means the water here is also particularly soft – book in a tour at Niseko Distillery to discover the unique ways that local gin and whisky is crafted here.
04.
Where to eat
Left: fried fish with Niseko vegetable ravigote sauce, Right: Yoichi pork mugibuta with preserved lemon and garlic butter at J’ai la patate, Hokkaido. Photograph courtesy of J’ai la patate
The crispness of the climate in Hokkaido means the seafood here is exceptionally fresh, and everything from beef to vegetables to dairy is renowned for its quality. For a delicious introduction into proper Niseko cooking, make a reservation at Robata Naniwatei, where you’ll find a course of everything from crab croquettes and local winter vegetables to dashi soup made from fresh mountain water.
French cooking also finds a comfortable home in Niseko, of which J’ai La Patate is a shining example – the small restaurants sit in a quiet town just outside Hirafu and is a surprisingly affordable gateway to French-meets-Japanese cuisine.
Then there’s the Michelin-starred Kamimura. Presided over by the smiling Mr Yuichi Kamimura, you can expect rainbow trout confit dressed in salty kombu, wagyu chateubriand and Hokkaido venison. Its smaller sister restaurant, Kitchen Niseko, has a slightly more relaxed vibe (with equally delicious food) that’s worth checking out, too.
05.
Where to bathe
Private Hinoki onsen at Zaborin, Hokkaido. Photograph courtesy of Zaborin
After a day spent hiking up the mountains (or skiing down them), the promise of warming your bones in a natural hot spring (or onsen) is the reason many of Japan’s residents brave the harsh climate of Hokkaido in the first place. Niseko has a smattering of particularly picturesque onsen – and the best hotels will usually have on-site public baths – but for the best onsen experience in the area, seek out Yugokorotei at the foot of Annupuri, where you can breathe in the mountain air surrounded by pillows of fluffy snow.
If something more secluded appeals, book into Zaborin, a traditional ryokan whose private baths are filled with volcanic, geothermal water that you can soak in while gazing out onto the forest beyond.