THE JOURNAL

Grilled turbot at Elkano, Getaria. Photograph courtesy of Elkano
“Food is everything we are,” wrote the late chef and explorer Mr Anthony Bourdain. “It is… your province, your region, your tribe, your grandma.” And, it’s worth adding, it is the cities where what we are is broadly shared, adapted and exposed to new influences. Cities promise visitors a way to eat through the local culture, representing food from around their region and, sometimes, as in the case with capital cities, the country you are in.
There are diverse metropolises that fuse cuisines from around the world; those that specialise in one type of traditional cooking, and others where new culinary landscapes seem to be emerging. Here are a few of the world’s best culinary capitals – where an empty stomach is the only thing you need to bring along with you – and what to look for when you arrive.
01.
Athens, Greece

Left: bar seating at Linou Soumpasis. Photograph by Mr Yannis Drakoulidis, courtesy of Linou Soumpasis. Right: beans with wild mushrooms at Linou Soumpasis. Photograph by Ms Ifigeneia Philopoulou, courtesy of Linou Soumpasis
What to know: The Greek capital is earning a reputation for balancing both traditional and contemporary versions of its cuisine. There’s a lively food scene in the city, where classic tavernas, street-food vendors and upscale sites share the same neighbourhoods. Athens is changing fast, but where food is concerned, that’s no bad thing.
Where to eat: The self-coined “new-age taverna” Linou Soumpasis in hip Psirri has caused a lot of buzz for its fresh seafood and sleek, Instagrammable aesthetic. It is where Athenian photographer and editor Mr Chris Kontos advises visitors to eat. Meanwhile, Seychelles, one of the city’s most innovative modern meze spots, serves a rotating menu of modern dishes to a fashionable crowd. Phita is another superb gastro-taverna, focusing on a market-led menu that has included butterflied sardines on baked elephant beans and stuffed vine-leaves topped with fish tartare. Then there’s souvlaki (and you’re going to smell and crave souvlaki). It’s recommended to grab one at Volvi, a hole-in-the-wall located in the meat market. They use a locally sourced, chemical-free charcoal instead of a griddle. But it’s hard to go wrong in Athens.
02.
Mexico City, Mexico

Left: Chicken with risotto at Máximo Bistrot. Photograph by Mr Alejandro Yanes, courtesy of Máximo Bistrot. Right: Interior of Esquina Común. Photograph courtesy of Esquina Común
What to know: The sheer size of Mexico City means that it would take a few lifetimes to discover the wealth of gourmet restaurants and taco trucks. But the chef’s notoriety here is as important as the menu, and this means long queues and reservations planned well in advance for some of the most famous addresses.
Where to eat: There are hundreds of seriously talented chefs in Mexico City. Highlights include the buzzy Esquina Comun, which is at chef Ms Ana González Serrano’s home, Máximo Bistrot run by the award-winning Mr Eduardo García – order the grilled octopus with mole and sweet potato. Likewise, Quintonil, which has long been a candidate for Mexico City’s first Michelin star – chef Mr Jorge Vallejo is considered one of the nation’s best, and his decadent braised oxtail with almond purée is worthy of the long waiting lists. Pujol is another that is counted among the world’s greatest restaurants, and the seven-course tasting menu packs an incredible punch. But no culinary trip is worth its salt without getting into the street food here. People from all walks of life queue together to eat pork dishes such as chamorro (try the unassuming El Sella) or tacos (Los Cocuyos is a local pick).
03.
San Sebastián, Spain

Left: Dining room at Arzak. Photograph by Ms Sara Santos, courtesy of Arzak. Right: Atlantic horse mackerel with fennel powder and coriander seeds at Arzak. Photograph by Ms Magdalena Staurino, courtesy of Arzak
What to know: Once a quietly kept secret, the Basque city of San Sebastián is now widely known as a culinary haven. There are an abundance of Michelin-starred restaurants, but the city’s charms are ground-level, with small pintxo (a tapas snack) taverns dotted around the Old Town and trendy Gros.
Where to eat: Arzak is the most famous – and most difficult to reserve – of the Michelin-starred locations and features a legendary flavour lab. Elkano in nearby Getaria is considered one of the best places in the world to eat grilled fish, particularly their talbot. For sacred pintxo spots, do as the Basque do and order the anchovies at Txepetxa, the jamon from La Cepa and the legendary braised veal cheek from La Cuchara de San Telmo. And no trip to San Sebastián is complete without eating a slab of authentic Basque cheesecake at La Viña, so save some space – and order a drop of cherry liqueur on top.
04.
Marrakech, Morocco

Left: Mezze at Nomad. Right: Rooftop at Nomad. Photographs courtesy of Nomad Marrakech
What to know: A lot has changed in Marrakech over the past decade. As one of North Africa’s cultural hubs, investment has been poured in to meet the sharp growth in tourism, and new openings have influenced a quiet food revolution among the romantic bustle of the souks and grand squares.
Where to eat: Trendy addresses such as Nomad specialise in contemporary Marrakech cuisine, set over four floors in an old carpet store in the Medina. It is the latest from restaurateur Mr Kamal Laftimi, who runs a number of other hip restaurants across the city. Its juicy Moroccan lamb burgers, with a dollop of harissa mayo, are a must-try. But the city’s real speciality is tangia (not to be confused with tagine), a stew cooked for hours in an earthenware pot. Mechoui Alley, near the Jemaa el-Fnaa square, has long been established as the spot to find true tangia, as well as méchoui, slow-cooked lamb and vegetarian couscous dishes. Pushing the boat out? La Maison Arabe is set in a romantic riad, with upscaled Berber dishes and a famous vegetable tagine (it’s all very Casablanca). Finally, it’s a rite of passage to dine at Al Fassia, a refined but traditional restaurant run by a group of sisters. Mention their crunchy b’stilla meat pies to a local and observe as their mouths start to water.
05.
Beirut, Lebanon

Left: Counter at Baron. Right: Halloumi at Baron. Photographs by Ms Myriam Bouls, courtesy of Baron
What to know: Beirut has one of the most diverse dining scenes in the Middle East. There is opulent haute cuisine on Zaitunay Bay, shawarma spots dotted around working-class Hamra, and the hip Gemmayze and Mar Mikhaël districts have restaurants that could be lifted from Shoreditch. Beirut has something suited to everyone’s tastes.
Where to eat: Tawlet in Mar Mikhaël champions farm-to-table cooking, with a weekly-rotating menu designed by women from villages across Lebanon and a famous Lebanese breakfast (arrive hungry). But in the evenings, Mezyan is the place to be-seen, refining classic dishes like kibbeh – bulgur cigars stuffed with meat. Meanwhile, Baron serves up haute fusion cooking, and regularly makes headlines for their slow-cooked overnight lamb shank crusted in mint and mustard seeds. When it comes to falafel, the feuding Sayhoun brothers own sites right next to each other (one blue, the other red) and locals are divided on whose is the best. Make sure you visit Bourj Hammoud, where the large expatriated Armenian community preserve their traditional foods: the spicy sausage wrap at Basterma Mano and the sweet tahini bread from Ghazar bakery ought to be on any visitor’s list.
06.
Lyon, France

Left: Verbena steamed langoustine, grilled black rice, cucumber water, herbs and summer flowers at Les Apothicaires. Photograph by Mr Thomas Dhellemmes, courtesy of Les Apothicaires. Right: Interior of Les Apothicaires. Photograph by Mr Nicolas Villion, courtesy of Les Apothicaires
What to know: Lyon – not Paris – is considered France’s culinary capital. It’s a scenic renaissance town populated by gingham-clothed Bouchon taverns serving rich and fatty Alpine dishes and Rhône wines. So important is gastronomy to the Lyonnaise that they host the Bocuse d’Or, the biennial international chef’s Olympics.
Where to eat: When it comes to authentic bouchons, Chez Georges, Café les Fédérations and Le Garet are the most reliable places to indulge in staples such as andouillette sausage, coq au vin, and quenelles. A little out of town, L’Auberge restaurant, previously run by the late Mr Paul Bocuse, preserves the decadent and buttery Escoffier-era cuisine. Bocuse was also responsible for training Messrs Daniel Boulud and Joël Robuchon. But Lyon has forward-thinking addresses, too: Les Apothicaires fuses regional cooking with Nordic and Japanese influences, while Café Sillon’s Mr Mathieu Rostaing-Tayard is a star of the “New Generation”. His menu changes each fortnight to compliment in-season ingredients and his innovative ideas. A low-key lunch alternative can be found at L’Epicerie, a quaint bistro that serves tartines (or toast) with a variety of Lyonnaise meats, cheeses and jams.
07.
Bologna, Italy

Left: Interior of Trattoria da Me. Right: Maccheroncino al torchio, with ragu, porcini and truffle at Trattoria da Me. Photographs courtesy of Trattoria da Me
What to know: Bologna is nicknamed “La Grassa” – the Fat One – by the rest of the country for a reason. Thanks to the fertile region of Emilia Romagna, specialities like parmesan, Parma ham, mortadella and balsamic vinegar are staples of the city’s dimly lit romantic trattorias – many of them unchanged for decades in both decor and menu.
Where to eat: It’s best to acquaint yourself with the established and revered temples of gastronomy. I Portici is a legendary Michelin-starred address that offers a fine-dining twist on rustic Emilian cuisine. The all-female-run Da Me attracts reservations for their tagliatelle al ragu and flavoursome lasagne, which you can only order on Sundays. Trattoria Bertozzi is another of the great traditional taverns, known for its selection of local wine and cold cuts (the gramigna macaroni, smothered in parmesan cream, is the best in town). Looking for a quick snack? Polpette e Crescentine, located in the Mercato delle Erbe food market, is a prime choice for crescentine fritte: fried, lightly salted dough pillows that pair with Bologna’s fresh, soft squacquerone cheese and thinly sliced cured meats. And make sure you eat a mortadella sandwich at Pigro, too, off the Piazza Maggiore square.