THE JOURNAL

Selection of dishes at Atomix, New York. Photograph by Mr Evan Sung, courtesy of Atomix
Gone are the days when a taste of the chef’s favourite dishes was reserved for just a few lucky diners at the end of a dinner shift. With a growing – ahem – appetite for intimate and immersive dining experiences, some of the world’s best chefs are opening up their kitchens to a new generation of food enthusiasts who favour the masters’ expertise in pairing dishes and assembling a tasting menu over their own à-la-carte choice. Securing a reservation in one of the world’s best restaurants is any diner’s dream, sure, but seeing nearly every dish being prepared in front of you and being talked through their preparation and ingredients by the person that’s come up with them? Chef’s kiss.
From Mr Simon Rogan’s acclaimed Aulis counters to Mr Junghyun Park’s Korean-inspired cuisine and the latest London-based opening from Mr Mauro Colagreco, here are eight chef’s tables you should be booking now that are certainly worth the waiting list.
01.
Brooklyn Fare, New York

Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare, New York. Photograph courtesy of Brooklyn Fare
Inside Hudson Yards’ Brooklyn Fare, an upscale grocery market that’s been serving fresh produce to New York City since 2009, you’ll find the eponymous chef’s table. The experiential restaurant was originally located in Downtown Brooklyn – making it the first NYC restaurant outside Manhattan to hold three Michelin stars – but relocated to its new home in 2016. The menu, headed by Brooklyn Fare alumni Messrs Max Natmessnig and Marco Prins, is inspired by Japanese cuisine and French execution. Although the courses change to reflect the seasonality of produce, the tasting menu focuses on fish and shellfish, with one or two meat courses and a selection of desserts.
02.
Frantzén, Stockholm

Entrance of Frantzén, Stockholm. Photograph by Mr Martin Botvidsson, courtesy of Frantzén

After-dinner treats at Frantzén, Stockholm. Photograph by Ms Magda Stenlund and Mr Stefan Gissberg, courtesy of Frantzén
Enter through the wooden door of a 19th-century townhouse in Stockholm’s Norrmalm district and you’ll find yourself in one of Sweden’s buzziest culinary spots. Having relocated to the contemporary designed, three-story location in 2016, today Frantzén offers up an intimate, eclectic dining experience to 23 guests per sitting. Mr Björn Frantzén’s cuisine combines Nordic culinary traditions with international influences (he served stints at London’s Chez Nico, Paris’ Arpege and Stockholm’s Edsbacka Krog before establishing his own restaurant) and Asian notes, with everything from scallop, sea urchin, myoga and maitake on the menu.
03.
Atomix, New York

Mr Junghyun Park at Atomix, New York. Photograph by Mr Evan Sung, courtesy of Atomix
A follow-up to more casual sister eatery Atoboy, Atomix is where Korean culinary traditions and New York City verve collide. Chef Mr Junghyun “JP” Park and his wife and cofounder, Ms Ellia Park, have become two of the city’s most influential restaurateurs since opening the hotspot in 2018. Atomix is currently ranked in the top 10 of the world’s 50 best restaurants. The chef’s counter is an intimate experience around a communal counter that overlooks Park’s kitchen. Each of the 12 courses on the menu, ranging from sardine and bluefin tuna to langoustine, rockfish and jukyeom galbi, is served in bespoke ceramics and is accompanied by a card that gives guests an insight into the ingredients and their provenance.
04.
The Sea, The Sea, London

Langoustine pastry, fried milk and sorrel at The Sea, The Sea, London. Photograph by Ms Rebecca Dickson, courtesy of The Sea, The Sea

Interior of The Sea, The Sea, London. Photograph by Ms Jodi Hinds, courtesy of The Sea, The Sea
Headed up by Portuguese chef Mr Leandro Carreira, The Sea, The Sea is a bold, immersive deep-dive into some of the city’s most progressive fish cooking methods. The custom-built ageing cabinets – propelled by the restaurant’s ever-evolving nationwide fish wholesale arm – house the finest catches from the UK and Scotland and demonstrate The Sea, The Sea’s commitment to using only the highest quality ingredients. The eight-course menu, designed for 14 guests per sitting, offers up a variety of raw and dry-aged fish as well as some of Carreira’s signature dishes, which include his Scottish langoustine pastry and his pão de ló, a traditional Portuguese sponge cake, all accompanied by low-intervention wine pairings.
05.
KOL, London

Chef’s Table at KOL, London. Photograph courtesy of KOL
Marylebone’s KOL is the culmination of chef Mr Santiago Lastra’s exploration of his native Mexico’s recipes and cultural heritage. Having travelled across Europe, South East Asia, Japan and Russia to over 25 countries, and with tenures at Mugaritz and Noma among others, Lastra has amassed unparalleled knowledge on produce-sourcing and culinary innovation – all key aspects of his chef’s table. Inspired by a traditional Oaxacan home and overlooking its own private kitchen with a dedicated team of chefs, the 20-seat table takes its guests on a journey through wild British ingredients, reimagined through the bold, punchy flavours of Mexican cuisine. Don’t miss Lastra’s taco – langoustine, smoked chilli and sea buckthorn – and his mole, made from purple carrot, coloradito, fermented blackcurrant and winter truffle.
06.
Kitchen Table, London

Interior of Kitchen Table, London. Photograph by Mr Marcus Cobden, courtesy of Kitchen Table

Onion tartlet with parmesan, crème crue and chives at Kitchen Table, London. Photograph by Mr James Knappett, courtesy of Kitchen Table
Founded by husband and wife restaurateur duo Mr James Knappett and Ms Sandia Chang, Kitchen Table is an all-encompassing experience of Knappett’s European dishes and Chang’s extensive Champagne and oenological knowledge. Served up on a theatrical 20-guest U-shaped counter, the menu changes daily, so no two sittings are ever the same. Expect dishes centred around a single ingredient – such as turbot, oyster, scallop or lamb – and only the finest produce, sourced by Knappett’s network of independent suppliers – including day-boat fishermen and sustainable farmers – who have been the cornerstones of Kitchen Table since its establishment in 2012.
07.
Aulis, Hong Kong

Chefs at Aulis Hong Kong. Photograph courtesy of Aulis
Sitting alongside Roganic, the city-centric take on its founder’s farm-to-fork ethos in Causeway Bay, Aulis is acclaimed British chef Mr Simon Rogan’s first chef’s table in Asia. The 10-seater table offers an interactive experience of Rogan’s signature cooking style, which revolves around his commitment to produce traceability and provenance. The menu can include anything from truffle pudding and a pork and eel doughnut to mussel custard and frozen tunworth cheese. And each of these dishes uses fresh ingredients sourced from organic farms in the New Territories. Aulis’ UK locations – one in London, hidden away in Soho’s St Anne’s Court and headed up by executive chef Mr Oli Marlow and head chef Mr Charlie Tayler, and one in Cartmel – as well as the opening of its Phuket counter at Iniala Beach House Hotel next month, deserve a spot high up on your bucket list, too.
08.
Mauro’s Table, London

Jerusalem artichoke at Mauro’s Table, London. Photograph by Mr Justin De Souza, courtesy of Raffles Hotels & Resorts

Mauro’s Table, London. Photograph by Mr John Athimaritis, courtesy of Raffles Hotels & Resorts
With nine restaurants already under his belt across Argentina, France and China, Argentinian chef Mr Mauro Colagreco has now taken over the newly opened hotel Raffles in London’s OWO, Britain’s Old War Office, with three restaurants focused on locally grown, seasonal ingredients. Colagreco continues his work as Unesco’s Goodwill Ambassador for Biodiversity, with all dining experiences intended to reflect his approach to gastronomy through sustainably sourced produce. The intimate chef’s table, which sits up to 20 guests, introduces diners to The Knotted Garden tasting menu, a journey through herbs, vegetables and fruits. If you’ve booked a spot, you’ll be greeted with an “Ice Breaker” – an infused glass of water that’ll transport you to the chef’s garden before you even get to taste its flavours.