“If you want to destroy my sweater,” sang Weezer in their 1994 hit “Undone – The Sweater Song”, “Hold this thread as I walk away.” Truth be told, this isn’t the only way to mangle knitwear, and in fact many of the most heinous crimes against a sweater have come in a botched attempt to actually help said item of clothing. If you’ve ever failed to read the label, stuck the washing machine on a overly vigorous cycle or hung a cardigan the wrong way to dry, you might have previous experience in what not to do to keep woollens clean, but also in one piece. As for what should instead do in such a situation? Our correspondent spins this yarn.

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How should I wash clothing that is made from wool?

@evgenicp, via Instagram

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If the reply to this question sounds world weary, please forgive me. This particular scribe is in the trenches of wool and cashmere protection, having unearthed the annual supply of knitwear as we segue into autumn to find it attacked by moths, with prized pieces riddled with larvae-munched holes. So, locked and loaded like a much less effectual Terminator, I’ve been studying the ins-and-outs of wool care. How to wash is obviously a different matter, but one that arises now that we’re well and truly on the way to winter. If you’ve ever had a three-figure, perhaps even four-, cashmere sweater shrink to Pomeranian proportions thanks to over enthusiastic washing, you’ll understand my plight. Weighty knits begin to emit a particular musk as they go unwashed for fear of damage… After all, it’s not simply a case of just throwing woollens into the washing machine the way we do with most of our clothes at any other time of year.

Obviously, as a caveat, we have to point out that you should wash wool according to the label’s instructions, and when in any doubt, it’s better to take your sweaters to a dry cleaner than risk destroying them. With those anti-litigation T&Cs out of the way, we first of all recommend that you don’t undertake a hefty degree of washing unless your wool really needs it. Subject the piece to a spot check; it might just require gently dabbing in one area. Apply a stain remover you trust to the area, working inwardly and on the reverse side of the garment to limit spread. Dry by dabbing and leaving at room temperature, not by squeezing or stressing the fabric, or by placing in direct heat as it could shrink the fibres or stain whites yellow. Don’t ever be tempted to place in a dryer for convenience – you may as well hurl it into landfill to save yourself the time and energy bill.

Handwashing is generally considered the safest way to treat wool and cashmere sweaters. Brands such as The Laundress – sold on our sister site, NET‑A‑PORTER – specialise in specialist detergents for those very materials. Use the recommended amount and gently work in to the garment in a sink of tepid-to-cool water. Again, don’t twist or squeeze it dry. It will be sodden, but pat it as much as possible then leave to dry flat on a towel, rolling it up occasionally so that the towel absorbs the water. Don’t hang wet wool – this can result in knitwear stretching towards the bottom, where weight will gather as the water pools. And instead of ironing, steam wrinkles induced by washing – a hand steamer is a revelation here.

Some wools can be washed in the washing machine, but this is entirely dependent on what the label says and whether your machine offers a specific setting. The governing body of all things wool-related, The Woolmark Company, recommends only using detergents and machines that have the Woolmark symbol on. It also points out that for drying, specific mesh screens that dry garments flat are available to fit over a bath.

Now you’re suitably armed and ready, go forth like a one-man wardrobe war commander.