THE JOURNAL
From left to right: Messrs Peter Orlovsky, William S Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg, Alan Ansen, (seated) Paul Bowles, Gregory Corso, Ian Sommerville, Tangier, 1961. Photograph © Allen Ginsberg LLC. Courtesy Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library, University of Toronto
In the early 1950s, influential Beat writer Mr William S Burroughs swapped New York City for Tangier. Then an unspoiled Bohemian enclave teaming with vibrant coffee salons and a ready supply of kif, the Moroccan port would provide the heady sanctuary to pen his most famous (and controversial) work, Naked Lunch. And it wasn’t long before his friends and fellow poets followed, some on fleeting visits, others drawn to extend their stays. Pictured here – in a photo that, to the untrained eye, looks very much like a rather menacing family portrait – is one such trip.
Eerie it might be, but its subject’s sartorial nous is hardly up for debate. As well as penning several masterpieces between them, it seems this lot had a particular penchant for louche linen shirts, classic workwear and a good check. Here, then, are five of their most stylish outings during their heyday.
01.
Mr William S Burroughs
Messrs Allen Ginsberg, William S Burroughs and Gregory Corso in Tangier, 1961. Photograph © Allen Ginsberg LLC. Courtesy Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library, University of Toronto
Born just a few months before the outbreak of WWI, Burroughs, who would go on to write some of the most important postmodern works of English literature, was one of the more senior members of the Beat cadre. And his style was, naturally, a little more grown-up as a result. Dressed here in a sharply-cut tan suit and tightly-knotted slim tie as well as a a felt trilby – despite the blazing Moroccan heat – and his trademark dark-rimmed glasses, he offers a refined foil to his (often) workwear-clad associates.
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02.
Mr Allen Ginsberg
Messrs Allen Ginsberg , Gregory Corso and Barney Rossett in Washington Square Park, New York, 1957. Photograph © Burt Glinn/Magnum Photos
When he wasn’t penning howling critiques of the capitalist machine (or “mental Moloch”, as the poet preferred to call it), Mr Allen Ginsberg was, if this picture is anything to go by, schooling others in how to wear a piece of classic Americana: plaid. Cleverly, his own buffalo-checked shacket – though we highly doubt he’d have referred to it as such – is cut in a surprisingly modern oversized fit. If you’re thinking of investing in a similar style, our advice doesn’t deviate: size up if you want to be able to layer it over knits and the like.
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03.
Mr Gregory Corso
Mr Gregory Corso (left) with Mr Peter Orlovsky in Tangier, 1961. Photograph © Allen Ginsberg LLC. Courtesy Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library, University of Toronto
If we didn’t know any better, we’d have assumed Mr Gregory Corso, the author and poet who became a key member of the Beat Generation, was auditioning for a starting role in Miami Vice. In that loose, louche white suit (not just a stylish choice, but a practical one in the Moroccan heat) and, to our eye, what appear to be slippers, we’re in no doubt that he’d have won the part. Honourable mention should go to his companion and fellow poet, Mr Peter Orlovsky, whose blazer-and-jeans pairing, though more conservative, is miles ahead of its time.
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04.
Mr Neal Cassady
Mr Neal Cassady in San Francisco 1955. Photograph © Allen Ginsberg/CORBIS/Corbis via Getty Images
“He was simply a youth tremendously excited with life,” is how Mr Jack Kerouac characterised his creation Dean Moriarty in his rambling magnum opus On The Road. We can safely assume he would have said the same about his friend Mr Neal Cassady, who served as the model for the novel’s protagonist. Clad here – in a snap taken just a few years before the book was published – in a slightly dishevelled-looking checked blazer (perhaps the inspiration for Moriarty’s “real Western business suit”) and equally worn-in tee. He might be deep in thought, but he should have no qualms about this look.
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05.
Mr Amiri Baraka (aka Mr LeRoi Jones)
Mr Amiri Baraka at his home in Newark, New Jersey, 1959. Photograph © Mr Burt Glinn/Magnum Photos
Perhaps the most striking thing (aside from the stark presence of a single white rose) about this 1959 shot of writer Mr LeRoi Jones – who later changed his name to Mr Amiri Baraka after the assassination of Malcolm X in 1965 – is the fact that, like Ginsberg’s getup above, you can very much imagine this exact outfit being worn today. The workman’s chambray shirt and tan chinos is a classic, season-less combination and, you’ll be pleased to know, almost universally effortless to pull off.
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