THE JOURNAL

Brioni might be best known for the somewhat traditional and sophisticated suits it has built its name on, but that’s not to say that the house doesn’t delight in surprising the world with something fresh on occasion. This is the Italian house that, in 1952, held the first ever fashion show to feature male models, after all – at the time it was a pioneering move that helped shape the menswear industry as we know it. Named after the Brijuni archipelago off the coast of Croatia, the brand has become a byword for the finest in menswear and the number of the world’s most famous and powerful men who have donned the brand’s suits are too many to name.
Legacy is all well and good, of course, but keeping up with the times (and better yet, helping to shape them) is perhaps even more important. Plus, right now is a milestone moment for Brioni. It has just reached its 75th year – no mean feat for any brand – and is now under the creative direction of Mr Norbert Stumpfl, who joined the house relatively recently in 2018. As such, the label has continued to push forward with its decidedly highbrow proposition in a way that retains the Brioni house codes yet feels increasingly modern. The clothes cut a suave yet relaxed figure, and the invariably rich fabrics feel reassuringly high-end without needing to clamour for attention. It’s worth mentioning here that Brioni’s tailors receive five years of training before they are able to work on the house’s wares, and everything Brioni puts out is rigorously designed to be as close to sartorial perfection as possible.

It gives us great pleasure, then, to announce a new collection from Brioni – now exclusively available on MR PORTER – featuring a well thought through curation of 19 pieces of clothing, each showing the breadth of the contemporary man’s wardrobe and designed to take you effortlessly from day to evening. This collection is something we’re rather proud of showcasing.
And why wouldn’t we be? The clothes are, to put it frankly, rather brilliant. Take the deerskin overshirt, for instance, which is crafted from supple black leather with edges painted by hand and fits like a particularly refined chore jacket. It has a deliciously smooth texture and a roomy fit that makes it an excellent match for knitwear. Or, perhaps, the house’s Super-Plume jacket, which is crafted from washed silk. The tactile feel of the fabric means this is louche enough to lounge in and is akin to wearing an easy jacket, despite how sharp it may appear.

Another standout is the Teddy coat (which we imagine is named after the post-war British subculture than the soft toy). Though it has a brush-like handle that the Italians refer to as spazzolino and is exceptionally comfortable and soft to wear, the depth of the fabric and rakish lapels give it an air of authority that is decidedly unlike a teddy bear. In any case, this is a real marvel of Italian artisanship, and was worn by Mr Brad Pitt in the brand’s recent advertising campaign.

Of course, this varied collection of leather shirts, silk jacquard smoking jackets and intricately knitted cardigans are noteworthy items of clothing – not, you might say, intended for a wallflower. But while these clothes do invite a certain level of appreciation and admiration from the outside, the true pleasure is in wearing them. These are pieces that will elevate a man’s everyday wardrobe with ease; whether he’s taking them on a business trip across the world or, perhaps more realistically at the present moment, a stroll around the garden.
This year has indeed changed what many of us expect from our clothes; they need to be more comfortable than ever, and more practical, but they also need to make us feel good. We want to know that they’re going to last, too. Thankfully, if there’s a brand that’s up to the task of making sure menswear always looks – and, crucially, feels – good, it’s Brioni.