THE JOURNAL
“Round, round, baby, round, round / Spinning out on me”. It’s not explicit whether the underlying theme of this Sugababes song is an appreciation of mechanical timekeeping – the repetition of the lyric “got my kicks for free” casts doubt on the idea – but Mses Buchanan, Buena and Range were bang on the money if so. Watches (and clocks; and sundials, for that matter) are notable for their circular nature. Circular springs unwind to power an array of wheels, turning hands through 360 degrees to tell you that you’re late for another meeting. In a perfectly standard example of form following function, watches tend to come in round cases, too.
Except lately, not so much. Watch geeks have always been deeply in love with the angular, polygonal form of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, but that admiration spilled over into the mainstream before the pandemic. Over the past five years, the Royal Oak’s designer Mr Gérald Genta has gone from behind-the-scenes genius to something approaching posthumous celebrity – and his many creations, including the Patek Philippe Nautilus and IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur, have become the hottest wrist property on the planet.
Other watches not actually designed by Genta have rocketed in popularity, too, to the extent that nearly every watch brand on the planet found it essential to have something in this vein. From the elite Vacheron Constantin 222 and Overseas, the opulent Piaget Polo and Chopard Alpine Eagle to the approachable Bell & Ross BR 05 or Oris ProPilot X. And if watch buyers weren’t falling for geometric shapes of the 1970s and 1980s, they were rediscovering the elegant, dressy creations of Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre and other masters of the square, rectangular or sometimes completely irregular watch.
Straightforward round watches have never exactly disappeared – that would be like society forgetting about the existence of bread or trees. It’s just that they haven’t had it their own way for a while. However, that might be about to change.
“There is a renewed appreciation for the simplicity and timeless elegance of round timepieces”
“In the world of horology, where trends often swing from one extreme to another, the classic round watch is making a strong comeback,” says Mr Carson Chan, industry expert and founder of the WatchProfessor Academy, an educational resource for aspiring watch connoisseurs. “While shaped watches and intricate designs have captured the spotlight in recent years, there is a renewed appreciation for the simplicity and timeless elegance of round timepieces.”
Timeless elegance is right. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, the industry’s annual tent-pole trade fair, for the first time in a while the limelight was falling on neat, perfect circles. IWC majored on its Portugieser collection for the first time since 2020, introducing a range of carefully curated combinations of metals and dial colours – red gold with black dials, white gold with icy blue and stainless steel with sandy beige – capped by a show-stopping, record-breaking perpetual calendar that required physicist Professor Brian Cox to be drafted in to explain exactly how it works. (In a nutshell, it is designed to keep track of the phases of the moon for the next 45 million years. Yes, million.) It has remained one of the most talked-about collections of the year since its launch.
Not to be outdone, stablemate Jaeger-LeCoultre revived its complex Duometre chronograph in a new glass box-style case – and with no shortage of intricate technical improvements. And, after years of (admittedly successful and perpetually appreciated) standout releases in the Reverso range, it really cut through.
Vacheron Constantin’s headline act may have been its one-off, multi-million dollar Berkley Grand Complication pocket watch that set new standards for headache-inducing complexity. (Which was, we must add, perfectly round, although most write-ups glossed over this somewhat basic point.) But, at more earthly levels, it graced us with some of the most handsome new references in the Patrimony collection.
“While the Overseas model has garnered a dedicated following for its sporty appeal, the Patrimony stands out for its pure, minimalist aesthetic,” Chan says. “The round case and elegantly simple dial embody the essence of a dress watch, exuding sophistication, class and timelessness.”
“In the ever-changing landscape of horology, some designs remain perpetually relevant”
Perhaps the strongest ode to the humble round watch rang out from the coolly minimalist stand of NOMOS Glashütte. The German watchmaker isn’t one to be blown hither and thither on the fickle winds of fashion, yet its decision to launch a 31-piece collection of limited-edition designs in its most beloved case shape, the Tangente, felt very now. The 38mm automatics, each complicated only by a date window, come in 31 strikingly original dial designs, each assembling a colour palette of three or four shades that perfectly exemplify a mood (Love, Peace, etc) a worldly constant (Schulhausweiss; schoolhouse white) or a poetic concept (Nachtgesang; night song).
As a product launch, the capsule idea was perfectly judged, and as individual watches, they are captivating. The Tangente has been a staple design at NOMOS since the company began, never leaving production, but suddenly in 2024 it was cool again.
In that sense, it’s a perfect analogy for our wider point – it’s time for the round watch to come once more to the fore. As Chan puts it, “The resurgence of classic round watches is a celebration of timeless design. They remind us that in the ever-changing landscape of horology, some designs remain perpetually relevant, offering a perfect blend of tradition and innovation.”