THE JOURNAL

Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo. Photograph by Mr John Crux/Getty Images
The must-visit farmers’ markets around the globe.
Such is our post-capitalist society that more of us than ever are meekly handing the roles of hunter, gatherer and chef to a third party while we lose the know-how to select seasonal fare, identify a butcher’s cut or, worst of all, grate our own carrot.
Luckily, there’s an antidote. Falling from grace over the past half century while the corporates fed us from foil trays, farmers’ markets have enjoyed a renaissance, buoyed by increased interest in provenance, craft and wellness. Vocal vendors, piles of produce and an elbows-first approach to shopping add up to a visceral experience that puts food front and centre. They’re also a first-rate place to gorge on a city’s culinary culture. To help would-be farm-to-plate fanatics cut out the middle man, here are 10 of the world’s finest food markets.

Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market
San Francisco
Run by a non-profit group devoted to sustainable agriculture, San Francisco’s waterfront farmers’ market runs three times a week, with the Saturday get-together hosting more than 100 vendors under the Ferry Building’s clock tower. Alongside a standout blend of organic and artisanal produce from California’s sustainable growers, chefs and restaurants, there’s a series of market-to-table demos to help you up your own culinary skills.
What to order: porchetta sandwich at Roli Roti.


Or Tor Kor Market
Bangkok
Bangkok’s best-loved food market began life as an agricultural co-operative before growing into this vivid snapshot of Thai culinary culture. Fresh fruit, vegetables and seafood sit side by side with a fresh selection of the country’s spices and sauces and a vast array of Thai street food – including steamed seafood, curry buffets and satay skewers – all perfect for fuelling a trip to the 15,000 stalls at the nearby Chatuchak flea market.
What to order: charcoal-roasted pork satay skewers.


Tsukiji Fish Market
Tokyo
The world’s biggest fish and seafood market is, inevitably, a must for sushi fans. Set between the Sumida River and the Ginza shopping district in central Tokyo, it’s split into an inner and outer market. In the the former, wholesalers trade their wares, including those famous tuna auctions. The latter is the perfect spot for fresh sushi breakfasts, lunches and people watching.
What to order: kaisendon (raw seafood and rice bowl).


Borough Market
London
Borough Market is testament to the diversity of London’s food scene and endures as a beacon for locals and tourists alike. Queues for quail eggs, British cheeses, Ethiopian curries, French galettes and gourmet coffee snake around the site outside Southwark Cathedral. It’s also kick-started a vibrant roster of new restaurants in the area.
What to order: oysters from Richard Haward.


La Boqueria
Barcelona
La Boqueria, set off the lively Rambla, has often been hailed the world’s best market for its selection of 200 traders who sell fresh produce in the centre of the city. Founded in a former convent in 1836, this striking spot is the place to sample Catalonia’s finest meats, cheeses and seafoods, while breathing in the best of the region’s culinary culture.
What to order: bacallà salat (dried salted cod).


Torvehallerne Market
Copenhagen
This striking symmetrical structure near busy Nørreport Station is home to one of Copenhagen’s culinary hotspots, putting a Scandinavian spin on the food market concept since launching in 2011. Among the 80 vendors vying for attention, highlights include the smoked seafood, smørrebrød, micro-brewed beer and weekly tasting events from some of Denmark’s finest producers.
What to order: homemade pizza at Gorm’s.


Egyptian Spice Bazaar
Istanbul
The Egyptian Spice Bazaar in the Fatih district of Istanbul is the perfect place to sift through sumac, saffron and other edible souvenirs. It was the final stop on the Silk Road trading route from China. Today it’s as vivid as ever, selling confectionery, trinkets and the city’s renowned Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi coffee.
What to order: freshly made lokum (Turkish delight).


Fischmarkt
Hamburg
Hamburg’s Fischmarkt on the banks of the Elbe is a German institution. It’s open early each Sunday morning, with attendees ranging from up-all-nighters seeking sustenance to families, tourists and rowdy fish traders. Seafood is the central proposition, but fresh meat, vegetables and drinks can all be found among the historic galleries that date back to 1703, accompanied by live music.
What to order: Fischbrötchen (fresh fish sandwiches).


St Lawrence Market
Toronto
St Lawrence Market has kept Torontonians sated for more than 200 years. There are weekly farmers’ and antique markets and it has been at the heart of the old town’s regeneration in recent times. Set across three imposing buildings, each Saturday the market’s bakers, bean-to-cup baristas and local farmers dish up artisanal produce to an appreciative crowd.
What to order: peameal bacon sandwich from Carousel Bakery.


Testaccio Market
Rome
To the south of the city’s tourist hotspots, Testaccio market has long been a culinary centre, housing generations of butchers before this modern incarnation of the market set up in 2012. While fresh meat, vegetables and fish draw Romans for their weekly shops, street food stalls specialising in regional wines and delicacies mean it’s a popular destination for out-of-towners, too.
What to order: deep-fried artichokes at Mordi e Vai.
Market stands
