Not yet heard of a fragrance wardrobe? It’s time to start one. There are many similarities between fragrances and clothes, of course; different “colours” for different moods, seasonal looks, more functional pieces, everyday staples, and so on and so forth. With the right core scents, a fragrance wardrobe is like having access to a fourth dimension; it has an ability to influence the mood and opinion of people around you – for better or for worse. Variety is power.

“I don’t believe in a signature scent,” says Mr David Seth Moltz, the founder of Brooklyn-based fragrance house D.S. & Durga. “I wouldn’t want just one shirt or outfit – I like to wear things based upon the day, the weather, the mood. It’s a fun and very easy way to highlight something specific about that day.” The point, then, is that your fragrant choices can run concurrently to that of your clothes; not a perfect correlation by any means, but at least taking one other into consideration.

So, where to start? To help you on your olfactory journey, we’ve created this succinct guide, equipping you with the minimum fragrant artillery to help you succeed in any given situation. Here are the five core elements that should be present in every balanced fragrance wardrobe.

A go-to fragrance is one that you can rely on when you’re in a rush or have no time to really think about your choice. This is one for your day off, a casual lunch date or perhaps when running errands in anticipation of bumping into someone you know. It’s also a fragrance that you could wear at home for when visitors come round, or just simply because you feel like it. In regards to its potency, it shouldn’t shout, but it also shouldn’t be so timid that it ceases to exist. It shouldn’t be overtly cheerful (sweet and fruity) nor overtly moody (leathery and woody). Yes, this sounds like a riddle, but rest assured the answer is far simpler than it may appear.

One option is to choose a scent composition that is mainly either floral or citrus – see Frederic Malle’s Cologne Indélébile, a composition based primarily on orange blossom absolute and white musk. Or, opt for a scent with lighter sillage, such as Byredo’s Gypsy Water, which despite its complexity of amber, sandalwood and pine needles has a soft, friendly approach – perfect for daily use.

This one is all about balance. You want to find something that will have a subtle impact, but that certainly won’t leave your colleagues reporting you to HR for air pollution. The goal is to find a scent that is confident, sophisticated enough to convey your taste, yet humble enough to know its place. It’s your hidden help, your aura if you will. People will like you, and even they won’t know why. Scent has a crucial role to play in how you are perceived, be that threatening or welcoming, funny or serious. Leverage that to your advantage.

Much like the go-to scent, inoffensive citrus notes work well in the professional arena, but we also recommend looking out for more deliberate undertones of spices and woods, that help to convey confidence and authority without being overpowering.

The eternal classic Tom Ford for Men is a great eau de toilette with a balanced personality, layering the uplifting mandarin and bergamot with the characterful ginger and a warm leather heart. L’Air Barbes by 19-69 is a more obscure choice but no less imperious. Opening with an alert lemon top note, the scent is enriched with an undercurrent of the floral ylang-ylang and notes of concrete and ink (yes, you read that right) in the base to convey a more mysterious and intriguing persona.

There are times where the astute approach is to blend in, but equally there are times when it pays to stand out. Perfect for parties, nights out and social gatherings (one day), this a scent that performs well in more intimate settings.

One of the more interesting ingredients to look out for when choosing a standout fragrance is a creamy floral called tuberose. Sweet and seductively sensual, such is its potency that legend has it during Queen Victoria’s reign, young ladies were banned from smelling tuberose flowers in bloom, for fear of them having spontaneous, ahem, orgasms. A powerful flower indeed. You won’t find a more expert proponent of this than Mr Dominique Ropion, whose Frederic Malle scent Carnal Flower (see what he did there?) is infused with the highest concentration of natural tuberose in the industry. One could argue that this is the fragrance Ron Burgundy thought he had.

Known as liquid gold in Middle Eastern culture, nothing quite says “I’ve arrived” like the warm resinous aroma of oud. Still, this is powerful stuff, so a word of warning. Go too strong and it becomes overpowering, having the completely opposite to your desired effect. Instead opt for more sophisticated uses of the ingredient, such as the revered Oud Wood by TOM FORD BEAUTY, which uses rosewood and vetiver to give the oud a softer, more elegant hue.

This should be a light fragrance you can spray liberally and reapply with panache. Hot-weather scents invigorate you as much as they do others, with their airy floral and citrus notes proving the ideal contrast to a hot, balmy climate. In fact, warm weather is where cologne truly comes into play. A personal favourite is Penhaligon’s Endymion – it has the trademark citrus notes you’d associate with the summer season, but champions lavender as its lead floral, giving way to a lingering powdery scent.

A more conventional choice would be Mr Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino or its (slightly) lesser-known younger brother – Mandarino Di Amalfi. With a more zesty opening than the former, Mandarino Di Amalfi boasts a similar citrus floral composition, but gives a more cooling mid-range than its predecessor. Refreshing to everyone that smells it, the right summer scent can make you the ideal hot-weather companion.

Note that your scent will dissipate faster in hot weather, so try spritzing some on your hair to give the fragrance more longevity. The heat from your head will give extra carry, while your hair holds in the scent for longer.

A good, winter-appropriate scent is one with spicy notes to punctuate the winter air and woody tones that carry warmth. An aroma that’s potent enough to break through your thick winter layering, yet sophisticated enough to be charming when you’ve taken your coat off.

A particularly captivating winter scent is D.S. & Durga’s Burning Barbershop, inspired by the Curly Bros barbershop fire in 1981. The complex, subtly medicinal scent exudes the smokiness of lavender burned in oil, eventually revealing the sweetness of vanilla at its hearth.

Also consider Le Labo’s Rose 31. Traditionally you would think of rose as being a light and dainty floral but Le Labo’s choice of rose is oriental, more akin to the mesmeric oud in its weight. Rose 31 combines spicy cumin with a cedar, woody base making for a complex yet warming winter scent.