Why Common Projects Isn’t Just About Shoes

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Why Common Projects Isn’t Just About Shoes

Words by Mr Dan Rookwood

2 December 2016

We speak to the designers behind the iconic minimalist sneaker brand, as the new collection arrives on MR PORTER today.

It’s not giving away too many trade secrets to say that Common Projects sneakers are among the most popular products on MR PORTER. They are phenomenally successful.

But the brand was never supposed to be just footwear. In fact, when the co-founders Messrs Peter Poopat (then a magazine art director) and Flavio Girolami (a consultant for Italian shoe brands) first dreamt up the idea for their company in the late 1990s over rather too many drinks in a now-shut bar beneath the Maritime Hotel in Chelsea, New York, they discussed plans to perfect the design of several everyday objects – a desk lamp, a chair, a wallet. It was always supposed to be Projects-plural. It’s just that their reinvention of the sneaker – which was among the first to bridge the gap between sports shoe and dress shoe – ended up being such a hit, they decided to concentrate on footwear for a while. With Mr Girolami’s contacts in Italian shoemaking, it made sense.

Twelve years later, the pair have finally released their next Projects – a range of pared-back leather goods including a backpack, a cardholder, a washbag and a wallet. It almost sounds like an oxymoron to say they are distinctively minimalistic, but any fans of Common Projects’ sleek, pared back aesthetic will know exactly what you mean.

You won’t have read much about Messrs Poopat and Girolami. They shun the limelight, they have never done any advertising, they very rarely do any press. But today, MR PORTER is proud to launch an exclusive capsule collection of their footwear that uses the same textured leather as their new line of accessories, and so we took the opportunity to ask if they would give us an interview. They agreed to do it over email, speaking as one.

Where did the name Common Projects come from?

Common Projects was a name that we made to work on creative projects together. Our first project was the Achilles by Common Projects.

You always intended to do more than just sneakers, right – hence Projects plural?

Yes, Common Projects was theorised to umbrella a series of seasonal items as an object-based zine of sorts. Of course, it was sort of an experiment from the onset. We still consider our footwear as a “first project”.

So tell us about this new capsule collection for MR PORTER – what was the thinking behind it?

We just launched a line of small leather accessories and bags that we’re really proud of and MR PORTER seemed the perfect partner to celebrate it. We envisioned the footwear with the same materials and colourways as the accessories for this special capsule. For Common Projects fans, we feel they’re classic must-haves.

How long did it take to develop your new line of accessories?

We’d been developing the accessories line for several years. We tend to progress at a snail’s pace, but we believe the offering is indicative of the time spent.

Where is it all made – presumably not in the same shoe factory in Italy where the sneakers are made?

Finding the perfect partner to make any project is half the battle. Our accessories are made in the same region as the footwear, but not by the same factory. We look for factories and people that are good at what they do. They’re the best in the business for this particular project and of course it’s all made in Italy.

What makes these leather goods “Common Projects” – what are the design signatures?

They’re simple and understated in design. They’re made with the same level of care and the finest materials. They don’t scream that they’re special. In fact, they may even seem commonplace or mundane. They really shine once you start to live with them. We believe this to be core to Common Projects.

Why did you start with luxury sneakers as the first Project? How come it’s taken so long to do the other Projects?

We never necessarily intended to “start” with luxury sneakers. Opportunity presents itself and you either seize it or you don’t. We’ve had several opportunities to do other projects but weighed up either the timing or other factors and decided to wait. We like to do things right and rushing almost never gets you there in the same manner. We’re not in a hurry.

Why have you done so little marketing or advertising?

We just don’t feel our offering or our clientele are swayed by this sort of communication. We also don’t like the idea of telling anyone what to do, or be, or feel – which advertising is insistent of, even if it’s telling you not to. We feel it’s something you have to experience to understand and if you don’t, well...

You very rarely do any interviews – why?

We sort of feel as if we’re caretakers for the brand. The brand is more about the people who wear the product and what they put into it. We don’t want to get in the way of that.

Much like your design aesthetic, your entire business is pretty pared back. Give us a sense of the scale of the operation?

Much like our process, the team hasn’t changed much since the beginning. All we can say is we’re lean and people who have worked for the brand are still with the brand. We don’t have anyone over us. It’s just us.

What have been some of the mistakes you’ve made and learned from over the last 12 years?

Honestly, we do things we feel are right for that moment. For the same reasons we don’t do things that don’t feel right. Often we know if something is going to work or not. We even do things sometimes that we know won’t work but want to realise it and that helps us grow. In that respect we don’t regret. “It’s better to regret something you have done than to regret something you haven’t...”

Have you had any memorable interactions with crazed fans and sneakerheads?

Our fans, the ones that “get it”, aren’t usually crazed or necessarily sneakerheads. Recently, we were in the Apple Store and a fan approached us to let us know how much he really appreciated the brand and what it stood for. It’s a great feeling and from a cool kid. It’s happening more often, and although it can be awkward at times, we’re thrilled when it happens.

How do you feel about all the imitators and rip-off merchants out there?

This always comes up and all we can say is that it’s bittersweet. We’re just thankful that our brand resonates as the beginning for people. We’re happy that we can inspire, we’re even more grateful that the people that know, know.

What’s next – will there be yet more Projects for Common Projects? What would you love to design – a watch, a lamp, a chair…?

All of it. We’re always doing this in our personal lives to some degree. Maybe some of those “projects” will become Common Projects.