The Sharpest Men This Month

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The Sharpest Men This Month

Words by Chris Elvidge

5 October 2016

Our roundup of the world’s best-dressed men, and the lessons – sartorial and philosophical – to be gleaned from them .

The world turns. Seasons change. The sun rises. The sun sets. One night, a strong wind blows half the leaves off the trees. It is now autumn. Men wake up. They go to their wardrobes to get dressed. In London, Dazed magazine publisher Mr Jefferson Hack puts on a herringbone tweed overcoat for the first time since April, leaves the house and heads out to a fashion show. Other guests will covet his Burberry coat and pledge to seek out one of their own. Soon, herringbone tweed overcoats will begin to appear all over the city. Halfway round the world, in LA, Egyptian-American actor Mr Rami Malek slips into an ivory tuxedo jacket, which he carefully accessorises with a silk polka-dot pocket square. He is attending the Emmy Awards later this evening, where he is nominated for Outstanding Lead Actor in a Drama Series. He doesn’t know it yet, but he will win, and images of his tuxedo will be beamed across the world. Events such as these, which may seem insignificant in isolation, combine to subtly alter the course of fashion history. That’s what we’re doing here at MR PORTER. We’re recording history. Read on to discover what else happened in men’s style this month.

Anthropoid tells the true story of Operation Anthropoid, a top-secret WWII mission in which two really, really good-looking Czechoslovakian government agents (played by Messrs Cillian Murphy, above, and Jamie Dornan) were parachuted behind enemy lines to assassinate the high-ranking Nazi officer, SS Obergruppenführer Reinhardt Heydrich. Cue the donning of plenty of 1940s-inspired outerwear as our protagonists go undercover in Nazi-occupied Prague, with predictably envy-inducing results. Mr Murphy, in particular, spends a large portion of the movie wrapped up in a wide-lapelled grey tweed overcoat that we’ve been attempting to contact the costume director about ever since the credits rolled (if you’re reading this, Mr Josef Cechota, could you pick up the phone?). Dressing up in vintage menswear is just another day at the office for the Irish actor, of course, who also stars as the sharply dressed Tommy Shelby in the 1920s gangster series Peaky Blinders. It’s understandable, then, that he chooses to keep his off-screen wardrobe rather more subdued. So here is Mr Murphy at the movie’s premiere, upending red-carpet conventions in style with his scuffed suede shoes and navy worker jacket.

At 82, relatives begin to raise their voices when they speak to you and ask you questions such as, “Would you like another cushion?” when you already have three. At 82, which is the current life expectancy in Italy, you are in the target demographic for those bathtubs with an in-built door, but Mr Giorgio Armani, 82, does not care for your social expectations. Mr Armani shows up to movie premieres with more swagger than you had when you were in your twenties. Look! Here he is eschewing his trademark stretch navy T-shirt for a blazer, crisp white shirt, wide-legged trousers – a very contemporary silhouette – and a pair of pristine white sneakers. The take-home message? Mr Armani is OK, thank you very much, and no, he would not like another cushion.

Mr Jon Hamm has the look of a man who just heard that he won first place in a Mr Jon Hamm lookalike competition: delighted, as anyone would be, but also slightly terrified that the judges are going to discover that he is actually Mr Jon Hamm and strip him of his title and prize. But let’s head south from that peculiar facial expression to the reason we’re here: the clothes. It should come as no surprise that Mr Hamm, seen here arriving at the Tom Ford show during New York Fashion Week, is dressed head to toe in Tom Ford. The Mad Men (OK, he’s been in other things, too) actor has long been a fan of the brand, and this Prince of Wales check suit is evidence why. Impeccably cut and packed with smart sartorial details and accessories – the broad peak lapels, the cuffed trouser hems, the tie clip – it’s classic Tom Ford, if you even can say such a thing of a brand that’s barely a decade old.

A big, bold statement of a coat from the Dazed cofounder, pictured here at the launch party for the magazine’s 25th-anniversary edition, which featured nine (nine!) separate cover stars, including such legendary names as Ms Pamela Anderson and Mr Marilyn Manson. A good rule of thumb for big, bold statements is that they tend to work best in isolation, and menswear veteran Mr Jefferson Hack follows this rule to a tee by keeping everything else in his outfit – you guessed it – black. Well, not quite everything. Eagle-eyed readers will spot a flash of grey zigzag Missoni sock peeking out from between his drainpipe jeans and black brothel creepers, a subtle call-back to the herringbone pattern on his coat. It’s presumably this kind of attention to detail that has kept Mr Hack afloat in the fashion industry for a quarter of a century.

Wandering the streets of Milan dressed to the nines and looking like you’re having the time of your life is more or less Mr Lapo Elkann’s full-time job, and this photograph captures him hard at work. The Italian dandy look has fallen out of favour in recent years, thanks, in no small part, to the swarm of peacocks who descend on Florence’s biannual Pitti Uomo trade fair and completely overdo it, but here – courtesy of the grandson of Fiat boss and style icon Mr Gianni Agnelli – is a reminder of why it proved so popular in the first place. The key thing to remember about Italian style is that it should appear effortless. This is what so many people get wrong. They go too hard, throwing on accessory after accessory until they look like the mule at the climax of a particularly tense game of Buckaroo. If you take one lesson away from this picture, it is to be more like Mr Elkann, who wears his double-breasted suit with little more than a pocket square and a winning smile (the only accessory a man really needs).

Racing car driver, competitive juggler and occasional actor, Mr Patrick Dempsey steps into Mr Hugh Grant’s shoes as The Other Man in the latest instalment of the Bridget Jones saga, Bridget Jones’s Baby, which arrived safely and at a healthy weight last month. Any doubts as to the target audience of this ongoing franchise (hint: it’s for women) were firmly laid to rest at the movie’s Paris premiere, where the stars were forced to walk down a pink carpet and have their photographs taken against a floral wall in various shades of pink. Colour us outraged – if that’s not reinforcing gender stereotypes, we don’t know what is. Mr Dempsey, for his part, weathered the ordeal well, striking just the right note in a conservative yet contemporary ensemble of dark peak-lapelled suit, silk tie, striped shirt and well-polished monk-strap shoes. Special mention must also go to his hair, which he doesn’t so much wear as have. Still, it’s a marvel, and surely worthy of style-icon status in its own right.

Mr Rami Malek won big at the Emmy Awards, taking home the gong for Outstanding Lead Actor in a Drama Series (think TV’s own Best Actor Oscar) for his role as misanthropic hacker Elliot Alderson in Mr Robot. But that wasn’t his only success of the night. He was also awarded – unofficially, by us – the trophy for best white tuxedo jacket of the year, beating off stiff competition from Mr Chris Rock at the Oscars, rapper Common at the Oscars, The Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt’s Mr Tituss Burgess at the Emmys, and… er, that’s about it. Still, let’s not let the relatively uncontested nature of the category detract from Mr Malek’s victory. What we love about this look is how simple he kept it. His only accessory – besides a golden statuette – being a subtle sliver of polka-dot pocket square. A red-carpet look more than worthy of the evening’s leading man.

Every Saturday, or occasionally on Sundays and sometimes even Mondays and Fridays, depending on the scheduling of various domestic and international fixtures, former Barcelona FC player and manager Mr Pep Guardiola puts on a suit, stands next to a football pitch and watches as his current team, Manchester City, mercilessly thrash the living daylights out of whoever dares to oppose them (the Spurs game was a blip, right?). It’s a tough job, and how he manages to look so good while doing it we’ll never know. The Spaniard has brought a real sense of panache to Manchester’s so-called second club since arriving in the summer. We became aware of his personal style on his first day at the job, when he was spotted at the club’s Carrington training facility wearing a shawl-collared cardigan from the cult Italian brand (and former hooligans’ favourite) Stone Island. A strong opening statement, but even in his more sober game-day attire of suit, V-neck sweater, shirt and tie, he still stands head and shoulders above his managerial rivals. Mr José Mourin-who? (We love you, really, José.)

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