THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Mr Pete Gamlen
In an online world of constant fit checks, an overwhelming array of options and influencers on @uniformdisplay that all kind of look the same (the baggy jeans plus Sambas Soho crowd in London has taken over our FYPs), it’s difficult to pinpoint where you want to stand with your style. Everyone struggles, especially in their twenties. You’re trying to figure out yourself – you’re in the transition into adulthood. Your frontal lobe has just reached its full capacity and your wardrobe is still some way off. It’s hard to find your style identity when you barely know who you are.
But fear not, friends. Here’s the ultimate, expert-endorsed guide dressing well in your twenties and figuring out your style and aesthetic, going beyond the baggy pant fit checks.
01.
Explore what you like
Think about what you want to look like and how you’d like to present yourself. Are you sleek and cool in a SAINT LAURENT manner or dark and avant-garde in a Rick Owens-coded way? Or are you more casual and street-style aligned, with elements from Carhartt WIP and adidas collabs? Do you have a passion for Japanese denim? What kind of vibe are you going for?
If you don’t have a set aesthetic in mind, looking at visual examples will help guide you and elevate your style. Identify two or three style icons who resonate with you. Those could be celebrities, film characters or even friends and colleagues. And don’t think your list has to be set in stone – your sartorial Father, Son and Holy Spirit can change and evolve with time.
“It’s as simple as whose style do you want to emulate on a day-to-day,” says Ms Itunu Oke, style projects editor at GQ. But you shouldn’t focus too much on red carpets, as most red-carpet attendees have a stylist, and the outfits might feel unattainable. Oke suggests looking at street-style shots instead.
Think about textures and materials, colours you like, what makes you feel comfortable and what makes you feel confident. “No matter how much you know about fashion, as soon as you say, ‘I like it’, that’s the end of the conversation,” the TikToker Mr Ryan Yip notes in one of his videos. “I like it, so I’m going to wear it.”
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02.
Don’t be afraid to experiment
“Experiment as much as possible until you find what fits you and your personality,” says the stylist Mr Kwon Hepburn. “I know it’s hard to find your signature style when a lot of people on social media dress the same, but try to be as open-minded as possible.”
It’s all about having fun and trying new things. “You don’t know if you like something until you’ve tried it,” Oke says.
For example, an easy way to elevate a plain fit is to add jewellery, Hepburn suggests. A nice chain on top of your T-shirt, or some rings will add detail and texture to an outfit.
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03.
But don’t lose yourself to microtrends
“Don’t dive too deep into trends,” MR PORTER’s Junior Fashion Editor Mr Charlie Schneider-Jacobson says. “You won’t care in six months’ time. Just glance at a trend and use elements you like from it. Remember the dad sneaker? We’ve moved on from that – but it’s still OK to have a bit of chunk on the sole of your sneaker, or some vintage New Balance influence.”
Oke recommends playing with one trend at a time. “Trying to incorporate multiple trends at the same time will become messy. Also, it’s all about interpretation. You don’t have to copy a trend exactly as you see it.”
Hepburn agrees: “It’s about picking pieces from what you like and trying to make it your own.”
So, if you like blokecore, going for the full footie fit might look too costumey. Instead, embed one aspect of that aesthetic (ie, a pair of adidas tracksuit bottoms) into your non-trend-led clothing – such as a sweater and loafers. This will feel more authentic and add some intricacy to your fit.
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04.
Figure out your proportions
“Proportions are so important because they can better your outfit and actually make a difference,” Hepburn says. “Sometimes you see a person with a cool outfit and the proportions aren’t complementing their body type and it messes up the fit.” Hepburn recommends going for a straighter fit as that suits most body types.
“Skinny doesn’t look good on anyone, but a relaxed fit will look good on everyone,” Schneider-Jacobson says. “Just make sure you get the right sized waist trousers, and tailor if necessary.”
“And as we grow older, our bodies change, so it’s significant to find ways to alter your clothing, if possible,” Hepburn adds. “Get your clothes tailored – it will look better on you and wearing an outfit that fits better will also make you feel more confident.”
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05.
Find what your staples are
Once you have explored different styles, and have figured out what you like or dislike, you can start creating your own capsule wardrobe, whatever that means for you.
Observe your lifestyle. For example, if you work in an office and need to carry a laptop, you will need to invest in sturdy work bag – whether it’s a messenger or a sleek backpack. “But just because I would never leave the house without a messenger bag, it doesn’t you should do the same,” Schneider-Jacobson says. “Think about your routine and take it from there.”
“Don’t just buy something and wear it once or twice,” Yip notes in one of his TikToks. “Develop a sense of relationship with your clothes and understand how they perform, how they look… on your body. The feeling you get from knowing your clothes will always outweigh the satisfaction you get from having a lot of options.”
Take inspiration again here from the men in the public eye that you consider to be stylish. That could be Mr Rick Owens in his all-black uniform, Mr Karl Lagerfeld in his famous suits, or Tyler, the Creator, whose signature style is instantly recognisable. The common thread? Their style is all about repetition. Once you have figured out what your uniform looks like, you can start investing in different variations of those items.
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06.
Start investing
Now that you’ve figured out what you like to wear, you can then start to make some long-term investments.
“There are many variables when it comes to this,” Oke says. But if you have a solid foundation – great trousers, basic T-shirts, a nice sweater, pieces that are versatile and easy to build with – then you can really take it anywhere. “And I’ve always said that a good coat will take you places,” Oke says.
Schneider-Jacobson suggests investing in a good-quality hoodie, “preferably a zip-through with some weight and relaxed fit”. Hoodies are versatile and a staple – you can wear them almost everywhere.
Other adaptable pieces on Schneider-Jacobson’s list of essentials include: a pair of Derbies, which will take you from officewear to formal dress codes, a good suit and something you can wear with it (“you’re going to start going to weddings”), and also something to wear with jeans. Look at brands such as Acne Studios, The Row, Fear of God, Our Legacy and our in-house brand Mr P. for quality basics that will last you a long time.
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07.
Make mistakes
“It’s all about trial and error,” Hepburn says. “Not every outfit will be a 10/10, but as long as you’re open to new things and think outside your comfort zone, you’ll start to figure out your aesthetic.”
Personal style never stays still, silhouettes change, the trend cycle moves – it’s all about evolving, adapting and changing it up. “I still haven’t perfected my style, but I’m confident in the route I’m heading down,” Hepburn says.
And as much as we’d like to wear every single item we buy to death and make our shopping habits as sustainably minded as possible, sometimes it’s OK if you’ve grown out of that statement sweater you bought last year. You can donate or pass on to a friend, or you can make a buck out of your shopping regrets through resell platforms, such as MR PORTER RESELL.
“Look at pictures of yourself from a year or two ago,” Schneider-Jacobson says. “If you cringe a little at what you’re wearing, that means you’ve evolved. You’ll reach a point where old pictures will stop being cringe: you have now found your own style, well done.”
And if that’s not working, Schneider-Jacobson recommends following Oklahoma City Thunder point guard and street-style legend Mr Shai Gilgeous-Alexander.
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08.
Find your go-to brand
“If none of this is helpful advice, find one brand you love and only wear that,” Schneider-Jacobson says. Dripped out in a single specific brand will ensure that you’re always put-together and your pieces will pair well with each other.
“It should be a brand that only its cult following will get,” Schneider-Jacobson says. Think if there’s a designer that represents you, are you the guy they’re designing for? You usually know a wearer of Rick Owens, Maison Margiela, Balenciaga, Prada or Comme des Garçons when you see one.
But if you dedicate your entire wardrobe to one sole designer, it should also work with your aesthetic, your lifestyle and your body. If you’re on the taller side, opt for Nudie Jeans, Acne Studios or another Scandinavian line. For the more petit, Japanese or Korean brands such as KAPITAL, visvim or Amomento should fit the bill. Meanwhile, American designers usually carry bigger sizing that European brands do.
But do your research before you commit to being “the [insert brand] guy”.