THE JOURNAL
Photograph by Mr Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images
At MR PORTER, we love how fashion is always evolving. More specifically, we love how items of clothing that we might once have overlooked – cringed at, even – can be reimagined by a visionary designer or taken out of their original context by an astute stylist and all of a sudden grab our attention. This season, the wheel of fortune has landed on the sweater vest. Yep, the go-to uniform of geeks and grandads is now one of the hottest items in menswear, popping up in the autumn/winter collections of our favourite labels and on the backs of some of the world’s best-dressed men.
Two famously well-turned-out musicians are leading the charge. The first is Mr Harry Styles, whose seemingly endless knitwear collection includes an array of statement sweater vests by designers such as Lanvin and Gucci. The second, Tyler, the Creator, is a man who pretty much pioneered the golf-club-meets-skater-meets-streetwear aesthetic and has been sporting a sleeveless jumper since his Odd Future days, long before the rest of us cottoned on.
Elsewhere, plenty of snazzy dressers are proving that there are as many iterations of the knitted vest today – ribbed, checked, V-neck, turtleneck – as there are exciting new ways to wear it. We’ve picked out a bunch of them below.
01.
Double up on pattern
Photograph by Mr Marc Richardson
We’ll admit, stepping out in a fuzzy, multicoloured, patchwork sweater vest requires a great deal of confidence (a quality this man’s sly grin tells us he has in spades). Still, even those who are totally unfazed by colour might find their natural instinct when faced with such a striking piece is to layer something plain and neutral underneath. Be bold, says our subject, and double down with a similar motif instead for a coordinated yet contemporary look. Note: balancing out the deep-V neckline by wearing a polo neck underneath works just as nicely with sleeved knits, too.
02.
Pair with a plain tee
Photograph by Mr Christian Vierig/Getty Images
On the other hand, for the less adventurous dressers who are cautiously dipping their toe into the trend, may we present this altogether more accessible option. That’s not to say it’s boring, though – in fact, we’d wager that the ribbed texture of this deliciously chunky knit is exactly the thing that elevates what would be an otherwise plain get-up into something rather special. This more modern approach of layering a vest over a short-sleeved T-shirt has already been co-signed by Mr Ryan Gosling and the aforementioned Tyler, the Creator, so you’d certainly be in stylish company were you to give it a go. But, if you’re still feeling hesitant, then settling on a single head-to-toe colour palette – in this case, a crisp, clean all-white – will ensure your new purchase doesn’t leap out from the rest of your outfit.
03.
Dial down a poncho
Photograph by Mr Marc Richardson
Could there be a more terrifying combination of words in the English language than “turtleneck poncho”? And yet, looking at this photo, we’re not in the slightest bit scared – on the contrary, we’re rather keen to try it. What makes this woollen vest surprisingly wearable is that it comes in an autumnal olive green, which pretty much reads as a neutral. Likewise, teaming it with a long-sleeved knit in a similar hue knocks back a bit of the poncho-ness, resulting in a combo that’s not too far a departure from your average high-neck sweater.
04.
Supersize it
Photograph by Frency Style/Blaublut Edition
If for whatever reason you find yourself having to attend cricket practice in the afternoon and some sort of edgy fashion do in the evening, with no time to head home in between, then this outfit has you covered. However, how many of us would have the chutzpah to take a sleeveless two-tone cricket jumper and flip it inside out, as this rulebreaker has elected to do intentionally? Not every man can pull off such an experimental look – and to be fair, not every man wants to. Nonetheless, the decision to pair an oversized vest with a fitted neutral knit and pleated camel trousers is a styling trick we’re sure even more law-abiding dressers will be tempted to steal.
05.
Balance it out
Photograph by Mr Nabile Quenum/Blaublut Edition
Sweater vests and short-sleeved shirts might be categorised as stuffy – even more so when worn in tandem – so how is it that here both look indisputably cool? The unbuttoned collar and strangely chic creasing on the shirt sleeves certainly contribute to the overall off-duty feel, but it’s the wide-leg tailored trousers that lend this sophisticated dresser his air of studied informality (and show how silhouette alone can shift the mood). Colour also plays its part. Too much matchy-matchy coordination can feel contrived, but simply nodding to the sweater vest’s bold pattern by way of a red shirt collar creates a sense of harmony. Little else is needed other than an all-black suite of accessories and box-fresh white sneakers.
06.
Go full geek
Photograph by Mr Jason Jean/Blaublut Edition
The one thing holding most men back from wearing a sweater vests is that they’ll look like a dork. Not this guy. He’s chosen to embrace his inner nerd (all buttoned up and tucked in, as per school regulations) and for that we salute him. What stands out on first glance is that brilliant peacock-style necktie, which he’s made the focal point of his outfit by keeping his choice of vest muted in colour and free of frills. Our only addition at this point would be a limited-edition statement sneaker – just to make it clear you’re down with the cool kids, too.
07.
Have fun with it
Photograph by Mr Edward Berthelot/Getty Images
There are plenty of new ways to wear a sleeveless sweater. Layering it over your outerwear might be the most novel of all. Yes, it’s unorthodox, but if you happen to be the proud owner of an especially jazzy sweater – and this man’s geometric print knit with contrasting orange edges is almost as cheerful as he is – then why not show it off? Take note also of how he’s leaned in to the grandad vibes with a checked coat, then thrown it all off with a sporty electric blue zip-up, all the better to keep everyone on their toes.