THE JOURNAL
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Illustration by Bruno Mangyoku
Anyone who has felt the indulgent, silky embrace of cashmere will know that it rightly deserves its accolade as the king of yarns. And for the months when the mercury is southward-bound, it’s a warm, fuzzy antidote to any arctic fronts that blow into town. Its wondrous ability to keep you snug as a bug is down to the hollow structure of the fibre, which traps myriad air particles, forming a body-heat-fuelled barrier against cold air. You are, essentially, your own self-contained central-heating unit. As with all items of worth, cashmere requires due care to ensure it stays in shape – and we have the insider knowledge to keep your prized woollens in fine fettle.
01. Get hands-on with your laundry routine
It might seem logical to send your cashmere to the dry cleaner, but it is a natural fibre and can be washed in water. Indeed, cashmere has natural antibacterial properties and many leading brands recommend washing in cold water, as excessive dry cleaning can strip its protective oils.
“Fill your sink or bathtub with cool water – never hot as this will shrink the fibres,” says Lindsey Boyd, the cofounder of garment care brand The Laundress. “Add a squirt or two of pH-neutral wool and cashmere shampoo, turn the item inside out and add it to the water before agitating to distribute the detergent. Soak for 30 minutes before using fresh cold water to rinse clean.”
To dry your garment, don’t run it through the mangle. Be gentle and avoid wringing or stretching it. Gently press any excess water out before drying it flat between two soft towels in the open air, out of direct sunlight.
02. Use your machine, but dial it down a notch
If the thought of washing your cashmere by hand makes you feel like a Martha from The Handmaid’s Tale, you can use your washing machine – but make sure you dial it down from your standard cycle. “Select the cold-water setting and delicate/hand-wash cycle, then turn the item inside out, place it in a mesh washing bag to protect it from snags and add it to the drum,” Boyd says. “Use a specialist wool and cashmere shampoo that won’t strip the fibre of its natural protective oils.”
Cashmere should never be tumble-dried, unless you’re a fan of the shrunken look. Massimo Alba, the founder and creative director of his eponymous label, which offers a wide range of cashmere, recommends hand-washing, but says you can still use your machine’s spin cycle. “Place it in a pillow case to protect it and set the machine on a gentle spin cycle to extract excess water,” he says.
For items such as scarves or blankets, which seldom need cleaning, take them to a reputable dry cleaner that does not use the hazardous chemical perchloroethylene (PERC). This will help preserve colour and shape.
03. Show your cashmere some TLC
As with anything of value, cashmere should be treated with respect and requires some upkeep. Airing your garments after each wear is a simple practice that will keep them in order.
While pilling is a perfectly normal occurrence with cashmere, it can be kept in check easily. “I use a wooden cashmere brush on cashmere when it’s still wet after washing, as the fibre is easier to manipulate,” Alba says. “It’s a gentle tool and helps remove shedding hairs.”
Boyd also recommends brushing to tame pilling. “Our sweater comb is designed with two fine-mesh screens to gently lift pilled fibre,” she says. “Lay the item flat, then comb in one direction over the affected area, using short, gentle strokes.”
For excessive pilling, there are hand-held depilling machines that gently shave off pilled fibre. Don’t do this too often or you risk thinning the garment. If you’ve had the misfortune of acquiring a hole, take the item to a reputable tailor or dry cleaner that specialises in invisible mending. Or let MR PORTER do the leg work for you with its FIT & FIX repair service, powered by The Seam.
04. Tackle stains with the right tools
It’s sod’s law that whenever you wear something precious, you end up knocking the beaujolais over yourself. And because you can’t just throw your cashmere in the drum with a scoop of Vanish, it can be hard to know what to do to minimise the damage. If you’re out and have just acquired an unwelcome spill, a bottle of carbonated water could be your unlikely saviour – it can help remove minor stains, as the bubbles trap and lift the dirt particles. Apply it sparingly and dab with a lint-free cloth.
“Avoid napkins or paper towels, which will leave pulp behind, and steer clear of random soaps in the washrooms, which can make a stain more difficult to remove,” Boyd says.
Once you get home, take more decisive action. “For colour-rich stains, such as coffee, tea, wine, dirt and grass, our Stain Solution is ideal, while our Wash & Stain Bar will combat oil-based stains, such as perspiration, body oils and salad dressing,” Boyd says. “Work the appropriate treatment in with a brush until it’s lifted, then soak the garment in cold water before washing and air drying.”
For brightly coloured items, spot-test a small area with a damp white cloth and if there’s any colour transfer, take it to a dry cleaner.
05. Store your cashmere smartly
Cashmere is like beluga caviar to moths and while the pong of mothballs might haunt you with memories of a crotchety old aunt, there are less odorous solutions available to keep winged yarn-chompers at bay. Cedarwood balls or blocks are a natural, chemical-free repellent for insects – place them in the drawer or hang them in the wardrobe with your cashmere. And sand them gently a few times a year to keep their repellent scent going.
As a fibre suited to the cooler months, it’s worth packing away your cashmere garments to save space and keep them away from dust and creepy crawlies when spring arrives. Boyd advises using canvas or cotton storage bags, not cardboard boxes, which can attract insects and cause fabrics to yellow.
“Always store items clean when storing long-term,” Boyd says. “Odours, body oils and stains will attract critters and make cleaning down the line more difficult. Add insect-repelling lavender sachets to your storage area or container and use a cedar-scented wool and cashmere spray.”