THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Mr Luke Brookes
Like cashmere and silk, suede feels like an indulgent investment when you stroke its rich, fuzzy handle. But this appealing quality also makes it a magnet for dirt and dust. If you live somewhere prone to precipitation, you’d be forgiven for becoming a touch obsessive about consulting your weather app before you step out. Armed with the right knowledge, you can make being a custodian of suede a less fussy affair.
01.
Use a protective spray – and recoat annually
The old adage “prevention is better than the cure” holds true when it comes to caring for suede. While it can be tempting to step out in your newly acquired suede jacket as soon as it lands on your doorstep, taking a few minutes to spray on a defensive coating will pay off in the long run.
“Unless you are aiming for a weather-worn rugged look, it is always best to care for your suede from the outset,” says Mr Sean Lehnhardt-Moore, creative director of Belstaff, a brand renowned for its leather and suede. “A suede protector spray will keep water, dirt and stains at bay.”
Invest in a good-quality protector spray suitable for nubuck and suede, take the garment outside (when it’s not raining), brush off any lint or dust and give it a light, veil-like misting all over, lifting up arms and pocket flaps to access all areas. The coating will eventually wear off, so reapply once a year, preferably just before you start wearing it again.
02.
Perfect your brushing technique
The tactile, fuzzy texture that makes suede so appealing is down to its nap, the velvet-like fibres that characterise the underside of a hide. In contrast to smooth, full-grain leather, this makes it more susceptible to trapping dirt and dust, but you can help your suede stay looking fresh by using a brush on it from time to time.
Opt for a natural or silicone-bristled suede brush and steer clear of more abrasive tools. “A lot of suede today is ultra light and the old brass-bristle brushes can scratch or tear it,” says Lehnhardt-Moore. “Use a soft-bristle brush instead. Regular brushing will help to keep your suede free from dust and soft to the touch.”
When brushing, stroke gently in the direction of the nap to maintain a smooth, uniform look. The same technique can also be used to revive suede footwear.
03.
Take it to the professionals
Spray-coating, brushing and keeping your suede safely tucked up indoors on rainy days is a good start, but after months of wear, you might find your jacket is looking a little grubby around the edges. “The natural protective oils in the skin will dry out over time and it might have become soiled with wear,” says Ms Karen Tierney, excellence centre manager at Jeeves of Belgravia, dry cleaner to Prince Charles. “Take it to a dry cleaner with a good knowledge of dealing with hide garments once a year. They will take into consideration the type of skin, its construction, dyes and coatings and treat it accordingly, as well as correctly re-oiling the skin.”
Mr Pierre Mahéo, founder of Officine Générale, a brand that offers a wide range of premium suede, recommends dry cleaning in accordance with how often you wear your suede. “Once a year if you wear it a lot, but every two years is fine if you wear it occasionally,” he says. “I try to avoid cleaning it too often as over-cleaning can alter the texture of the garment.”
04.
Let wet suede dry naturally and don’t agitate stains
Even if you’ve been taking care of your suede like a newborn babe, you can still get caught short when a rogue raincloud makes an off-forecast appearance or if you’ve got a bit clumsy with your fifth pint. There are a few remedial measures you can take to curtail any mishaps. If you’ve been caught in a deluge, let the garment air dry naturally away from heat to prevent distortion and shrinkage.
“Once it’s dry, you’ll want to raise the nap,” says Lehnhardt-Moore. “Use a suede stone or velour lint brush and gently stroke the nap in the direction of the grain in areas that are crisp to the touch to revitalise the hide.”
Food and drink stains can be a particular headache and while it might be temping to start rubbing your garment with the nearest rag, this can make matters worse. “Blot the excess spillage lightly with a white handkerchief,” says Tierney. “Never rub it as this can damage the surface and lift the colour of the skin.”
For oily stains, Mahéo recommends applying terre de Sommières, a French powder that helps absorb greasy spills. “Leave a light coating on the jacket overnight, then brush it off,” he says. There’s only so much you can do as a mere mortal, so take your garment to a reputable cleaner after initial damage control.
05.
Store your suede shrewdly
If you prefer to keep your suede in hibernation during the colder, wetter months, a few simple measures will ensure it emerges from its winter sojourn looking just as handsome as you remember. Tierney advises using a sturdy hanger with a solid shoulder for jackets. “Using the right hanger will prevent the weight of the garment stretching or distorting it when it’s left hanging for a long period,” she says.
You’ll also want to stop dust collecting in the nap of material, so use garment covers. “Always store your suede in either cotton or linen dust bags and avoid plastic, which can generate and trap unwanted moisture,” says Lehnhardt-Moore.
Tierney seconds using breathable garment covers. “A porous cover encourages air flow and will help prevent unwanted mould growth,” she says. Store the garment bags in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. “This will prevent the skin from drying out and the colour fading, so it will still look fresh when you go to retrieve it again,” she says.
Illustration by Mr Luke Brookes