THE JOURNAL

Photograph by Mr Adam Katz Sinding
They were once called “southern necessities” by Victorian ladies too genteel to refer to them by their actual name. As archaic as this sounds, trousers are indeed a necessity for most modern men. The Ancient Greeks and Romans famously dismissed them as shapeless sacks worn by barbarians. They were referring specifically to the Persians, who found trousers far more practical than a robe when riding horseback into the fray of battle while wielding a heavy sword.
Alongside their practical merits for equine pursuits, climate also had a part to play in the eventual supremacy of trousers, which were a logically cosier choice in winter than a breezy toga or kilt. When the mercury starts to climb skywards, it could be tempting to regress and emulate a late-1990s Mr David Beckham in a sarong-inspired man skirt.
Most of us wouldn’t have the gall, but here’s how to style everything from linen trousers to wide-leg cotton trousers so you can stay cool and collected when shorts (or sarongs, for that matter) just aren’t going to cut it.
01.
Linen

Photograph by Mr Daniel Bruno Grandl/Blaublut-Edition.com
Linen has long been touted as the ultimate summer fabric, so it should come as little surprise that the Ancient Egyptians chose to clad themselves in the stuff. Its cooling qualities are down to its open, airy weave and ability to wick moisture – both key when it comes to regulating your internal thermostat. This makes it a worthy choice for summer trousers and its natural tendency to crease can impart an air of unstudied nonchalance when done right.
Mr Harry Brantly, co-founder and director of Frescobol Carioca, advises going for a style that has comfort in spades yet can still bridge both casual and formal situations. “I usually go to Tuscany in the summer and I find a pair of linen trousers with an elasticated waist with a slightly tailored fit, such as our Oscar linen trousers, are a great multifaceted option if you need to pack light. The relaxed waistband offers complete comfort, but the smarter cut provides a touch of formality, so they’ll work from day to evening.”
Linen is easy to dye, so it comes into its own in bolder hues. Brighter, ice-cream shades are better suited to the hours before sundown, but if in doubt, stick to the classics, as the gentleman in this snap does with a natural cream pair. The neutral shade makes them an easy companion with just about anything – in this case, a dusky pink shirt with sleeves rolled with just the right amount of sprezzatura.
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02.
Tropical wool

Photograph by Mr Szymon Brzóska/The Style Stalker
If you want to keep your cool, it might seem counterintuitive to wear wool, but if you know what to look for, the fibre has a wonderful ability to keep your temperature on an even keel, even during warmer weather. Tropical or summer-weight wool trousers, cut from woollen cloth woven in a looser, mesh-like formation – such as fresco or hopsack – have a distinct advantage over their cotton and linen brethren with their polished appearance and elegant, fluid drape.
Savile Row-based Yuri Yuri is known for its elegant tropical-wool trousers, which have a distinctive mid-century nuance. “When looking for summery wool trousers, examine the fabric and check for a loose, open weave,” says Ms Yuri Choi, designer and co-founder of the brand. “Also, a looser-fitting cut will be the most comfortable in the heat. Grey, cream and brown styles are easy to team with anything, whether that’s a knitted polo during the day or a billowy silk shirt and blazer in the evening, you’ll always look sharp.”
An easy way to identify a breezy, tropical-wool cloth is to hold it up to a light source. A good open weave will allow the light to permeate. While summery wool trousers provide the opportunity to be a little more experimental with your colour palette, the chap in this photograph has opted for a classic navy pair with pleats for added comfort. Worn with a neatly cut striped shirt and tassel loafers, it’s a look that’s timeless and elegant in equal measure.
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03.
Chinos

Photograph by Mr Adam Katz Sinding
Chinos might just be the most ubiquitous trousers of our age. They are, after all, the easiest style of legwear to wear after jeans, which won’t cut the mustard for every occasion. Legend has it that their name is a corruption of the Spanish word for Chinese, on account of the rolls of the hard-wearing cotton fabric bought by the US Army in the 1900s from factories in Imperial China to clothe troops stationed in the Philippines. Chino fabric itself, however, originated in the mills of Manchester, England, before making its way to China via British India. Chinos were created as a substitute for stiff army uniforms in the tropics and they remain a solid choice for the civilian summer wardrobe.
Mr Tobia Sloth, co-founder of Norse Projects, a brand that excels at chinos, advises paying attention to fabric weight when choosing a pair. “Summer can be unpredictable in Europe, so you want something that’s comfortable but can withstand temperature fluctuations,” he says. “Look for something that’s not too heavy and with a little room through the leg. For our summer chinos, we use a fabric that’s robust enough to hold its shape, but light enough to tackle warmer spells.”
Traditionally, chinos were a light neutral shade – khaki, beige and oyster white – a nod to their military roots, but nowadays, anything goes. As this man adeptly demonstrates, a khaki pair teamed with a jazzy short-sleeved shirt and sporty sneakers is a failsafe way to see you through summer.
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04.
Cropped

Photograph by Mr Marc Richardson
A man whose trouser hems were on an upward trajectory would once have been asked, “Are you catching dogs?” Sartorial goalposts have shifted, however, and now cropped trousers are everywhere. It’s easy to see why. Their cool, casual quality gives them a smart advantage over shorts, which is particularly useful if you work in an office that balks at the sight of a man’s bare leg.
US designer Thom Browne has long been an advocate of the style. Its “flood-length” trousers are a signature of each collection and, worn with a crisp white shirt or unstructured blazer, they offer a fresh, modern look suited to work or play.
The number one rule so you don’t come a cropper with this look? Pay attention to the height of those hems. While a higher cuff has a heightening effect, go too high and you run the risk of looking like your slacks have shrunk in the wash. If in doubt, opt for a length that sits just above the ankle bone when you’re standing, so you show a discerning amount of mankle, as the man in this shot has done.
Shoes are best kept clean cut – loafers, white sneakers (both without socks), sandals and backless loafer, an essential style of recent summers, are all solid options.
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05.
Wide leg

Photograph by Mr Marc Richardson
We’ve been told for a few seasons now that the skinny trouser is over. If you’re yet to embrace more capacious legwear, wide-leg trousers might seem daunting at first. They may evoke memories of a fustier age, but today, we’re not talking about your Grandad Joe’s slacks. They come with their own set of advantages – and not just when it comes to comfort.
“A tight trouser cut is restrictive and makes trousers more misshapen over time because the seat repeatedly stretches with your movements,” says Ms Nick Wakeman, creative director of Studio Nicholson. “With everyone spending more time working from home – or walking outdoors – a wider cut for comfort just makes sense.”
When it comes to picking the right wide-leg shape, Wakeman advises going for something considered, instead of too exaggerated. “Whether you’re short, tall, larger or smaller, a well-engineered pair of wide-leg trousers should give you proportioned volume in all the right places,” she says. “Ours are cut to flatter most builds.”
When it comes to styling, balancing out the volume on your top half with a closer-fitting piece, such as a tucked-in, crisp white T-shirt, is a safer approach. If you’re feeling bolder, Wakeman advocates what the achingly cool gentleman here has done and layering up with loose-fitting separates. “The shape, feel and proportion of your ensemble should flow naturally from your trousers,” she says. “Lots of layering, with an oversized shirt or lightweight knit and deconstructed blazer, creates a sartorially confident look.”