The Tuscan capital, Florence – to the surprise of no one – is brimming with fantastic places to stay. There are classic decadences, for example the Four Seasons. But may we also recommend The Place, a fresh version of Tuscan traditionalism that supplants gilded edges and heavy woods of, say, a Grand Hotel Baglioni (also good) with a minty palette. But let’s get out of town. (Be sure to arrive or depart Florence via its Fascist-era Santa Maria Novella train station – it’s one of the most attractive smaller stations in Europe.)

The exceptionally beautiful countryside ranges from rolling hills in Chianti, to more rugged mountains up near Lucca and Carrara. And though the region’s beaches cannot exactly compete with other Italian coastal provinces, it is absolutely one of the nicest to just sit and stare at. Ergo, here are a few countryside villas worthy of multiple nights: the youthful-buzzy, peachy-modern Villa Lena. Or the Cetinale estate just outside of Siena – the main villa was designed by Bernini pupil Mr Carlo Fontana and is absurdly luxurious (though an outbuilding called La Cerbaia, a converted farmhouse that sleeps 13 and has its own pool, is the sweet spot thanks to its hint of chill). And, one to watch, La Terra Di Neena, opening soon, designed by stainless steel’s greatest advocate, Mr Harry Nuriev.

Exceptions to the “mediocre beaches” of Tuscany includes its most popular island, Isola d’Elba – heavily touristed mainly by Tuscans themselves. (This author’s mother-in-law opted to spend her 60th birthday there, for example.) And here, the prize is a spot designed by the 20th-century superstar architect Gio Ponti: Villa Allungata (the “elongated” villa) – built in 1961 and renovated beautifully in 2021. Book well in advance.

If you don’t want to traverse open waters, perhaps some days at the Hotel Il Pellicano are in order, on the peninsula of Monte Argentario. It maintains the flair of a sweet 1960s’ Italian life in which it was forged, despite its exceptional new decor.

Beach if you must, and for that seek out rockier beaches near Livorno or on the Isola d’Elba (where you’ll find Capo Bianco, Sansone, Crocetta, and Laconella beaches). But, for a more Tuscan-specific experience, visit the hot springs of Saturnia – steamy mineral waters cascading down into a series of shallow stone baths. Very good if one is coming up to Tuscany by car from Rome.

Turning inland and north, however, it’s hard not to recommend Lucca and Arezzo – two very charming smaller cities that play host to two of the best flea markets. (As cumbersome as it may be to walk away with a chair as a souvenir, it’s never a regret.) The Arezzo market is open on the first Sunday of the month (and the preceding Saturday); and Lucca, the third (and its preceding Saturday). The former is the biggest in the region with about 400 stands, the latter just over half that size.

In June and July, explore the lineup of the Lucca Summer Festival, featuring shows that take place either in the intimate Piazza Napoleone, or in the park just outside of its 17th-century city walls. Its acts have included Mr Bob Dylan, Massive Attack, Ms Alanis Morisette, Mr Leonard Cohen, Sir Elton John – as well as many Italian stars such as Mr Ennio Morricone, Elisa, Giorgia and Blanco.

Art-wise, there are the classics of Florence, which hardly need mention, but for posterity: the Uffizi and the Galleria dell’Accademia, which truly are filled to the max with paintings, sculptures and tourists. You should also try the Giardino dei Tarocchi, a psychedelic mosaicked sculpture park built on Etruscan ruins, or simply wander Pietrasanta and its public sculptures (and then dine in the garden at da Giacomo).

For a rainy day, visit the Santuario di Montenero in Livorno, which contains an overwhelming gallery of 700 ex-votos depicting near-death experiences. Afterwards, enjoy a nice lunch at the very relaxed Trattoria Il Sottomarino.

The Italian culinary scene experiences a certain awakening in the summer, in the form of its many sagre – a string of food festivals that appear for a weekend or two in churchyards and fields and school grounds, each celebrating a particular dish: the tordelli, the mushroom, steak, the pine nut and much more.

They are local in all senses of the word: they are organised and attended by locals (hardly ever does one spy a tourist). They are crowded and chaotic. The evening will end with a band, a raffle and line dancing into the hot summer night. And though you’re at the whim of timing, one sagra recommendation is that of Aquilea, which takes place in August and is set in a hillside forest.

For a reservation in Florence, there is first the choice of going high or low – the ristorante or the trattoria. In the former category, it is Cibrèo, offering fantastic seasonal fine dining since 1979. For the latter, Trattoria Sostanza. Yes, it’s very popular, but it’s been going for more than 150 years. And it’s an excellent place for the traditional cut of beef, the Fiorentina.

Try to stumble upon a little beachside kiosk, say the Al Polpo Marino at the Spiaggia di Baratti. Or if you are just keen on wine, there are obviously many enotecas. Our choice would be Florence’s Vineria Sonora, part natural wine bar and part record shop. Alternatively, Lucca’s Ciclo Divino, modelled after the Venetian cicchetteria (meaning its little snacks are quite delectable, versus a typical aperitivo) and on weekend nights its crowds can heave out onto the street.