THE JOURNAL
Behind every great watch house, there’s always at least one truly great watch. In the case of IWC Schaffhausen, that’s probably the legendary Big Pilot’s. Born of necessity, the model is based on an invention during the early years of WWII, when military aircraft became capable of long-range missions.
Time was of the essence on such flights, making an ultra-precise, highly legible wristwatch an essential piece of operational equipment for pilots and navigators alike. IWC was commissioned to supply just such a watch, ultimately producing around 1,000 examples powered by observatory-quality pocket watch movements designed to remain accurate at temperatures down to -20ºC and featuring a stop-seconds function to enable pinpoint synchronisation.
The mechanisms were housed in giant, 55mm cases made from dull steel or greyed brass, while dials were a uniform black with bold, radium-coated numerals that could be easily seen in the gloom of a dark cockpit during night ops. A final, practical touch involved the fitting of a hide strap secured to the watch head by tough rivets and made extra-long so it could be worn both over the cuff of a flight jacket or even wrapped around a thigh.
Few of those original, massive pilot watches survive and those that do are coveted by collectors. But their mythical status has never been forgotten, so when big wrist watches became fashionable in the early years of the millennium, IWC only had to dip into its archives to create a new piece that, despite its vintage appearance, would soon become a modern classic.
“The Big Pilot’s is probably the most significant IWC watch in terms of our history and development,” says Mr Christian Knoop, IWC’s creative director. “It exemplifies so many things the brand stands for – our legacy in developing professional instruments for pilots, our engineering approach and materials expertise, but also the clean and functional design that has become characteristic for IWC.”
The Big Pilot’s watch was first released in 2002 and attracted instant acclaim, not least because it combined the original look with a case scaled-down to a still imposing but more civilian-friendly 46mm. The 1940 dial design was faithfully recreated, along with the conical “onion” crown (designed to be adjusted with a gloved hand) and the distinctive, riveted strap. Inside, meanwhile, there was IWC’s automatic Calibre 5011 movement with an impressive seven-day power reserve. As Knoop notes, “its bold aesthetic cues made it a rule-breaker in the watch world.”
During the intervening 20 years, the Big Pilot’s name has been used on a wide range of IWC watches based on the original aesthetic, but offering a selection of case designs, materials, movements and functions. But the instantly recognisable features of the true Big Pilot’s remain highly prized and carefully protected IWC signatures. And, as the rugged aesthetic of tool and military watches has become established as one of horology’s most versatile styles, so the Big Pilot’s watch has found its niche in civvy street as a fashionable timepiece that, regardless of the environment, always seems to look just right.
“Over time, the Big Pilot’s has become the timepiece of choice for cultural creators, creatives and entrepreneurs with ambitious goals who go their own way in life and who want to express this attitude through their watch choice,” Knoop says.
Given this illustrious past, it’s not surprising that IWC proceeds with considerable caution when it comes to giving the green light to collaborative versions of the watch. It is something the watchmaker only does when it is certain that the essence of the model will be fully respected. So, MR PORTER feels honoured to have been asked to work with the Schaffhausen-based brand to develop the superb Big Pilot’s 43 MR PORTER Edition 1, which will be available in just 500 examples worldwide.
While its relationship to the original, wartime pilot’s watch is instantly recognisable, the MR PORTER edition has a case scaled-down to an easily wearable and very versatile 43mm. And, rather than being made from steel, it is hewn from a solid block of bronze that’s been treated with a brushed finish to enhance its natural lustre. The appearance of this will gradually change over time as the bronze patinates, creating a unique and very personal watch that will develop and evolve with every adventure it experiences.
The rich colour also contrasts beautifully with the strong black dial, which, just as on IWC’s original pilot’s watches, carries highly luminous numerals and markings that make it easy to read in low light. Add to that a stainless-steel case back engraved with the MR PORTER logo and the respective edition number of each watch – plus that historic, riveted leather strap design – and this very special version of what is already a very special watch looks set to achieve a classic status of its own.
And, as the “Edition 1” in the title suggests, it is merely the start of what promises to be a long and fruitful collaboration with one of Switzerland’s most storied watchmakers. So, as our pilot friends might say, it’s definitely a case of “chocks away…”