THE JOURNAL

Quo Vadis Breakfast. Photograph courtesy of Quo Vadis
Start your morning right with one of these elevated breakfast recipes.
There seem to be as many opinions about the hallowed fry-up as there are people who consume the breakfast (or lunch or dinner, of course, such is its versatility). To baked-bean or to not baked-bean? That is a question, debated by many, along with such conundrums as poached, scrambled or fried eggs, and is black pudding an essential or superfluous addition? With these queries in mind, we asked three chefs behind top restaurants in London – all known for going the extra mile with their fry-ups – for their preferences, plus the secrets to their success.

HAWKSMOOR
Try gravy…
Mr Richard Turner, Hawksmoor group executive chef

Photograph courtesy of Hawksmoor
“At Hawksmoor, we do more of a grill-fry combo. We serve grilled bacon chops and sausages made to an old Victorian recipe, from pork, beef and mutton. We also have grilled tomatoes and mushrooms, fried eggs, short rib bubble and squeak and our ‘secret’ ingredient, a jug of gravy for pouring over the top. We also make our own baked beans using pigs’ trotters to give them some body. All in all, this is not a fry-up for the lily-livered.”

QUO VADIS
Ditch the tomatoes and the mushrooms…
Mr Jeremy Lee, chef proprietor

Photograph courtesy of Quo Vadis
“They say that Scotland makes the best breakfast. Curious praise indeed. Breakfast is the most personal of repasts, and early-morning grogginess needs dispelling with something delicious – like a beautiful pan of bacon and fried eggs. Every other addition depends on the groggy muncher’s likes and dislikes. Back bacon is often underwhelming, whereas streaky has all the joy of a pig in a few rashers, cooked almost crisp. Tinned beans can only be elevated by pairing them with Forfar bridie or Scotch pie; refried beans and a fried egg, on the other hand, makes a wonder of a breakfast. Sausages are the most divisive participant, best served disguised in a pot of braised beans. If you’re adding black pudding, it must be glorious. Tomatoes and mushrooms are pointless – mostly water – and potatoes should be crispy, not soggy with the texture of a duff marshmallow. Good toast is the crowning glory: thin and crisp without yielding, spread abundantly with cold butter.”

DISHOOM
Spice up your scrambled eggs…

Photograph courtesy of Dishoom
Mr Kavi Thakrar, co-founder
“Our food is pretty much as you would find it in Bombay, but we’ve had fun with certain recipes such as The Big Bombay – our homage to the classic full English. It’s a massive plate filled with smoked streaky bacon from The Ginger Pig, peppery pork sausages, akuri – spicy Irani café-style scrambled eggs – grilled field mushrooms and tomatoes, and masala baked beans. All this is served with buttered, toasted homemade bread buns called pau. It’s really damn good!”
FIRST THINGS FIRST
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