THE JOURNAL
Photograph courtesy of The Idle Rocks
Mr Michael Wignall is a singular chef with a singular vision. A former professional BMX rider, he long since swapped a bike for a spatula, and has spent the past two decades in various kitchens around the UK, creating incredibly sophisticated and intricate dishes. He started out at Broughton Park and has led the kitchen at Gidleigh Park in Devon and latterly at the Angel Inn at Hetton in Yorkshire. Every kitchen he has helmed has collected at least one Michelin star. He has, however, never worked in London – and explains why below. In a boon to southerners in the UK, however, he will be making his way down from Yorkshire this month, and will, for one night only, be taking over on the hobs at the Cornish water-front hotel The Idle Rocks in St Mawes on the 26 January to create a very special seven-course tasting menu.
Photograph by Mr Matt Austin
You were a sponsored BMX rider – what transferable skills did you learn?
Concentration, dedication, practise, practise, practise.
How did you go from bikes to being a chef?
I was very fortunate to travel the world when I was younger. My dad was interested in travelling and new experiences and so we would go to what were, back in the 1970s and 1980s, quite unusual places. Countries such as Turkey, all over the US and China. I sampled lots of different types of food. The best was China: I love all of the different textures and flavours. I developed this great interest in food and travel. My parents wanted me to pursue it and sent me off to catering college. I first worked front of house at Broughton Park and in a restaurant in Spain. I figured this wasn’t for me quite quickly. So then I started a role as kitchen porter at Broughton Park and slowly made my way into the kitchen. I think starting off in this way has given me a respect for the whole team that makes up a restaurant.
You have worked all over the country, from the Lakes to Devon, but never London, why is that?
I have had opportunities to work in London, but nothing has ever drawn me there. As the years have gone on, I’ve tried really hard to get a good work-life balance. My hobbies are wakeboarding and cycling, so I think, all in all, I’d find it really hard to get the balance I want if I was in London. I try to get there every couple of months, though, wherever I am. Last time, I went to A. Wong, where the food is absolutely amazing. I had the “Taste Of China” menu. The techniques, flavours and textures are fantastic.
How do you get ideas for the dishes on the menu at The Idle Rocks?
They are a selection of my favourite ever dishes, new and old, including smoked eel with oscietra caviar, hand-dived scallop, and Yorkshire lamb loin. Along with peanut parfait and powder, salted caramel ganache. The venison dish is the newest. It is from the woodlands next to the Angel at Hetton, so it’s super fresh.
You have won stars in every kitchen you have run since 1993. Are Michelin stars still important in restaurant industry?
Yes, of course. Everyone likes to be recognised for their hard work. It’s an amazing achievement. Plus it is a benchmark in the industry. But I’ve always said that it’s important for chefs stay true to themselves and not produce things just because they think it will get them a star. They have to be confident with what they’re doing and not compromise.
Which things from your fridge would you want on a desert island?
Brillat-Savarin cheese – it’s very creamy and rich. And charcuterie: the 5 Jotas Paleta Iberica Bellota, acorn-fed ham at its very best. The process they go through to produce this is phenomenal and the flavour is outstanding. If I’m going to die on a desert island, I’m going to do it in style and with a full belly.
You have moved around the country a lot, how does it change what you cook?
My style of cooking changes all of the time and it is not always dependent on the location. I started using less sugars and fats and created more vegetable dishes for example. At Gidleigh Park, we had a huge kitchen garden and a gardening team who were really passionate about what they grew. So, for most of the year, we would have fresh vegetables and fruit from the garden. Over time, your style evolves and the location supports that. At my restaurant in Yorkshire, game is at the heart of the community, so we use a lot of this in season. It’s about utilising what’s around you.