Six Important Skincare Ingredients Explained

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Six Important Skincare Ingredients Explained

Words by Mr Ahmed Zambarakji

10 May 2020

With the line between health and grooming becoming increasingly blurred, it should come as no surprise that our appetite for “naturally-inspired” skincare is growing. The prevailing logic is that if a plant-based, organic diet is good for our bodies, then the same approach should be just as beneficial for the skin on our face.

Still, this isn’t technically the case, and while synthetic formulas get a bad safety rep from the lentil brigade, sacrificing results from your skincare regime shouldn’t be necessary when choosing what goes into it. Depending on your personal values, the intransigent and unfounded myths are that a) natural products don’t pack the same punch as their laboratory produced counterparts or that b) all chemicals are bad. The happy groomer does not have to exist stretched between the two, however. Natural formulas that are kept in check, or even enhanced, by chemical bookends remain the safest and most effective solution.

With that in mind, we’ve highlighted six of the most effective ingredients on the market, and explained them below so that you understand them.

01.

Vitamin C

The familiarity of vitamin C isn’t the only reason for its popularity. It’s a potent antioxidant that plays a critical role in collagen synthesis, making it a staple skincare ingredient. For those who burn the candle at both ends, vitamin C can brighten dull skin instantly and help remedy pigmentation. There is, of course, a catch to this wonder ingredient. Vitamin C is notoriously unstable and will start to degrade quickly if it oxidises or is exposed to too much heat or light (part of the reason you need to drink OJ as soon as it has been squeezed). Reap the benefits by using high concentrations of different sources of vitamin C delivered in a durable formula such as Natura Bissé’s C+C Vitamin Cream.

02.

Salicylic acid

This is a mild-exfoliant that shifts dead skin and excavates cavernous pores, thus preventing unsightly blackheads and breakouts. One of the primary ingredients in aspirin (no, really), this beta-hydroxy acid is also a powerful anti-inflammatory. While salicylic acid can be obtained from a variety of plants (it is often listed as willow bark in “green” products), botanical sources undergo a hydrolysis method in order to isolate the active compound. For those with persistent blemishes, try Sisley Paris’s Intensive Serum With Tropical Resins and salicylic acid.

03.

Algae

The power of multicellular algae lies not just in its high mineral content but in its uncanny ability to self-regenerate in extreme conditions and, frankly, refuse to die. Algae’s Terminator-like ability to self-resurrect has made it an ideal contender for anti-ageing skincare. Algae-infused unguents have become so popular that market researchers at Mintel have suggested that 2 per cent of body care products launched between 2011 and 2015 contained a seaweed ingredient somewhere in the mix. Our favourites include Crème de la Mer (the clue is in the name) along with the seaweed-laden products from Haeckels.

04.

Alpha hydroxy acids

Derived from fruits and milk, AHAs like sugarcane extract, lactic acid, glycolic acid and malic acid are ideal for shifting dead skin and improving signs of ageing in concentrations of over three to four per cent. While both BHAs (see salicylic acid) and AHAs unglue the bonds that hold dead skin in place, AHAs only work on the skin’s surface and are water-soluble. This makes them better at reducing wrinkles and skin damage rather than tackling acne. Get the full anti-ageing benefits from formula that combines multiple AHAs like the Deep Exfoliating Mask by Dr Sebagh.

05.

Retinol

Topical retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that encourage cells to behave as they did in youth, all the while rebuilding collagen, ironing out fine lines and resurfacing the skin. Miracle ingredients like this can irritate skin if you’re not used to them, so it’s worth investing in something that you know will work. 111SKIN’s venerable Celestial Black Diamond Retinol Oil contains 1 per cent of the active and is as heavy duty as it gets – use it at nighttime when your skin is repairing itself, and wake up with a few years taken off.

06.

Hyaluronic acid

The gold standard in rehydration, hyaluronic acid is a spongey polysaccharide that has the ability to bind huge amounts of water to cells, and thus plump skin from the inside out. Not all hyaluronics are made equally and they can vary in consistency from watery liquid to crude oil (to wit, the really dense stuff is used for injectable fillers). Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Hyaluronic Serum is the perfect consistency and concentration – just remember to layer it with a moisturiser.