THE JOURNAL

Mr Spike Lee at the Cannes International Film Festival, 16 May, 1991. Photograph by Mr Gerard Julien/Getty Images
In Hollywood, a movie director’s style is often overlooked. More attention is paid to the actors or the film costumes, and we can end up missing out on style gems from the masterminds behind the camera. What started as a pandemic project for Mr Hagop Kourounian – a desire to share his favourite directors’ on-set style – @directorfits has cultivated a growing community on Instagram, with a very cool following including Ms Chloë Sevigny, Ms Janicza Bravo and Mr Jeremy O Harris. “I would always see these amazing outfits from movies on mood boards, but you never see anyone posting about Martin Scorsese or Francis Ford Coppola,” Kourounian says. “I was looking for a page dedicated to them. I also have this gripe with mood board accounts where they post a photo without an explanation. So, I wanted to share these photos but also give some context and talk about fun details.”
Kourounian lists filmmakers Messrs Sergei Parajanov and Paul Thomas Anderson as some of his favourite stylish men on set. “I’m always looking for collars, big jackets, big knits, big beards. I also love funny glasses and accessories,” he says. “But above all, I love seeing a uniform and day-to-day dress. Clothes really tell a lot about a person, so it’s great to see someone dressing in their element to do their job. I love when I can see the filmmaker’s character in their clothes.” Read on for seven highlights of movie director style that you couldn’t scroll past, as curated by Kourounian.
01.
Mr Steve McQueen

Mr Steve McQueen at the Toronto Film Festival, 13 September, 2011. Photograph by Camera Press/Ms Henny Garfunkel
“Double-breasted chore jackets like this seem to be a huge part of Steve McQueen’s everyday uniform, you can often see him sporting one on and off set,” Kourounian says. “The blue French chore coat is typically associated with labour workers from the 19th and early 20th century, so it’s interesting to see it in another context a century later. As he is also wearing it at work, he’s basically repurposing the ‘work’ element of the jacket. And the pink shirt is amazing. It’s so fun to see him pairing vibrant colours together.”
Get the look
02.
Ms Agnès Varda

Ms Agnès Varda on the set of Sans toit ni loi (Vagabond), France, March 1985. Photograph by Mr Jean Guichard/Getty Images
“This is such a great photograph – it’s on the set of Vagabond [Sans toit ni loi] in 1985. Agnès Varda looks like an Italian cowgirl with that big hat and the huge puffer coat, standing in that greenhouse. The coat is from this Italian technical skiwear brand called AnziBesson, which still exists today. I love cold movie sets because the crew is dressing for necessity. If you look at other pictures, Varda always wears very chic dresses and polka dots, so it’s subversive and surprising to see her wearing thick skiwear. And the viewfinder hanging like a necklace – it’s so interesting when an outfit incorporates the viewfinder because it’s clearly being used for work, but it also looks like a fun little trinket.”
Get the look
03.
Mr Spike Lee

Mr Spike Lee at the Cannes International Film Festival, 15 May, 1991. Photograph by Mr Mario Goldman/Getty Images
“This was taken at Cannes Film Festival in 1991, while Spike Lee was promoting Jungle Fever. Spike Lee is obviously a sports guy, you see him in a lot of sports gear and he’s done a lot of collaborations with Nike. It’s such a cool move to wear Jordan 6s on the sand at Cannes. You could see that now, but it’s not something you would’ve seen at the time. He’s wearing his usual attire at this prestigious French film festival; I like that he doesn’t compromise his uniform.
“Spike was so ahead of his time, not just with his work, but also the promotion of his films. His movies always came with merchandise. You can see he’s wearing a ‘Fever’ cap and a custom varsity jacket with a patch on the sleeve that reads ‘5 for 5’ and underneath is a list of the last five movies he had done at the time. It’s a championship jacket for his movies. He’s the GOAT.”
Get the look
04.
Mr Paul Schrader

Mr Paul Schrader in Edinburgh, 19 August, 1985. Photograph by Mr Steve Pyke/Getty Images
“I feel like Paul Schrader is one of the most underrated directors when it comes to style. He has a good eye for detail and he sticks to what he likes. He tends to opt for circular frames with his glasses and here, he’s wearing Polo Ralph Lauren round lenses. The Rolex Day-Date is great; you always see him wearing this specific model.
“The short-sleeved sweatshirt is so cool. When I posted this image on Instagram everyone in the comments was convinced it was merch for Ingmar Bergman’s 1966 film Persona, which I couldn’t confirm. But if you don’t know, Paul Schrader is very active on Facebook. Someone showed him my Instagram post and asked about the sweatshirt. Turns out he got it when he was living in Tokyo, researching for Mishima. Apparently, it says ‘Person’ and it was a gift from a friend who bought it from the Omotesando district in Japan. It looks so good layered over the shirt. I love the way that you can see the shirt under the sweatshirt. And he hasn’t popped out the collar, which makes it so much better.”
Get the look
05.
Mr Steven Spielberg

Mr Steven Spielberg at the Back to the Future Part III Premiere, Los Angeles, 21 May 1990. Photograph by Mr Ron Galella/Getty Images
“Steven Spielberg is the poster boy of classic director’s style. He’s what you think of when you think of what a director looks like: a classic vest, trucker hat and aviator glasses. He has always had this uniform of general normcore swag. But not here. This is at the premiere of Back To The Future Part III. That’s the Western one where they all travel back to the 1880s. He’s dressed in theme with ultimate Americana style and I’m almost certain the cardigan is by RRL; Spielberg has a history of wearing RRL. He’s wearing his usual casualwear underneath, but he’s paired it with a cowboy hat and bolo tie (an American Western necktie, usually woven or made from leather). The Ray-Bans are a nice touch, too. They’re classic Steven Spielberg.”
Get the look
06.
Ms Claudia Weill

Ms Claudia Weill on the set of Girlfriends, New York, 1978. Photograph courtesy of The Criterion Collection
“Auteurs tend to write a bit of themselves into their movies and weave in their character in the storyline. A lot of the times you can see the parallels between their wardrobe and the characters’ costumes. This is on the set of Girlfriends, which is loosely based on Weill’s own experience of growing up and trying to become an artist. I like how the protagonist is mirroring her. And she’s wearing something that reflects on workwear, bringing the uniform aspect on set. Double denim at the time was more commonly associated with men, so it’s cool that the outfit itself implies that she’s in charge. I also love seeing people wear Wrangler instead of Levi’s, it’s a nice surprise. Wrangler has a deeper blue, and I love the details they have on their buttons and pockets.”
Get the look
07.
Mr Wes Anderson

Mr Wes Anderson on the set of Moonrise Kingdom, Rhode Island, 2012. Photograph by Focus Features/Alamy
“In most scenarios, Wes Anderson is wearing a corduroy suit and Clarks’ Wallabees in various colours, it’s his uniform. This picture was taken on the set of Moonrise Kingdom. He’s knee-deep in a lake and he’s wearing fishing garters over the suit to protect it. I love his dedication and commitment to his outfit. And I’m almost certain he’s wearing Wallabees under the garters.
“There’s something very elegant and simple about him wearing the same thing every day, and customising it depending on the conditions, such as the lake in this picture. You can tell he’s put a lot of thought into it. He always reflects the vibe that he’s putting on in his films. He could be in the film if he wanted to – it’s his world and he’s dressing for it. It takes a lot of discipline to maintain the same aesthetic for so many years. And fun fact: Mr Fox’s suit in Fantastic Mr Fox is modelled after Anderson’s own.”