THE JOURNAL

The egg sammy at Sea Containers. Photograph courtesy of Sea Containers
Where to eat your eggs and avocado toast in the capital.
Undoubtedly one of Londoners’ favourite weekend pastimes, brunch in the capital has become the new frontline for our fast-paced culinary scene. Although the portmanteau may enrage purists, the sweet spot between breakfast and lunch offers plenty of scope for today’s restaurateurs to tempt us from our eggs-benedict-and-broadsheet comfort zone, with traditional breakfast fare now sharing menu space with languid all-day feasting and the bacchanalian concept of the “bottomless” brunch.
London’s current crop of brunch hotspots offers a round-the-world journey of culinary influences that does plenty to reflect the vibrancy of the city’s food scene. From Lima to Lebanon via Bangalore and Boston, here’s our pick of those places doing it right.
European

Shoreditch’s weekend rice brunch. Photograph courtesy of Brindisa
Of the many continental takes on brunch available across the capital, few are served in surrounds as glossy as at Aquavit London. This sleek new space in St James’s Market features artwork by Mr Olafur Eliasson and a Nordic brunch menu that includes impeccable potato pancakes, cured salmon and smoked eel Benedict. Not to mention the feisty Viking Breakfast cocktail, which pairs one of the many aquavits on offer with tomato, horseradish and dill.
Elsewhere, Tapas Brindisa Shoreditch brings Valencian cuisine to London’s brunch scene with its arroces (rice) menu: a fragrant array of freshly prepared seafood, pork ribs and wild mushroom paellas. Our advice? Secure a seat on the terrace, drop your afternoon plans and order yourself a zingy Galician albariño.
Aquavit: 1 Carlton Street, aquavitrestaurants.com; Tapas Brindisa Shoreditch: 152 Curtain Road, brindisakitchens.com
Middle Eastern

Shakshuka. Photograph by Ms Keiko Oikawa. Courtesy of Ottolenghi
Since opening his first delicatessen in 2002, Israeli chef Mr Yotam Ottolenghi has raised the bar when it comes to morning dining, his eponymous restaurants luring in passers-by with buttery pastries and pared-back interiors. They also boast a vibrant brunch menu showcasing Mr Ottolenghi’s self-carved culinary niche through piquant shakshukas, za’atar eggs and his latest addition: fluffy pancakes served with poached pears, pistachio and orange yoghurt.
A more carnivorous take on brunch can be found under the railway arches at Dalston grillhouse Berber & Q, where the Mangal breakfast pairs merguez sausage, lamb kidney and roasted bone marrow with chickpeas and eggs. Elsewhere on the menu, the full Israeli – a tahini-enhanced platter for two that includes honeyed feta, boiled eggs, roasted beets and pumpkin chirchi – makes a more than worthy alternative.
Ottolenghi: various, ottolenghi.co.uk; Berber & Q: 338 Acton Mews, berberandq.com
Asian

Bacon Naan at Dishoom. Photograph courtesy of Dishoom
The reawakening of Indian cuisine in London has been largely led by the Bombay-inspired Dishoom, whose small but perfectly formed collection of restaurants has just expanded beyond the capital to Edinburgh. The fortunate Scots will soon also be able to relish the now legendary bacon and egg naan, which – embellished with chilli tomato jam and fresh coriander – reimagines the humble bacon sandwich and is the perfect partner to Dishoom’s bottomless chai tea.
One of London’s most refined bottomless brunch offerings is served at Roka. Welcomed with a bellini cocktail and kept topped up from Roka’s wine list, visitors can go to town on the Japanese restaurant’s acclaimed menu, with sashimi and dumplings the perfect precursor to Roka’s standout robata grill and dessert platter.
Dishoom: various, dishoom.com; Roka: various, rokarestaurant.com
Latin American

Cheeseburger hash and huevos rancheros. Photograph courtesy of Bad Egg
Mexican cuisine has taken London by storm in the past six months, with top-drawer taquerias a familiar sight on both our high streets and news feeds. The recently reopened Bad Egg – a laidback diner in the heart of the City – puts its own spin on the trend with a chilli-infused huevos rancheros, which sees scrambled egg served up alongside fried tacos, chipotle, salsa and guacamole – or try slow-cooked pork, beans and kimchi on toast.
Another welcome addition to the bottomless brunch trend, buzzy Mayfair hotspot Coya’s ceviche-led menu brings the best of Peruvian food to the capital. Expect coriander-spiked sea bass, charcoal-grilled ribs and some of the capital’s best calamari, while – with pisco sours available on tap – you’ll quickly find that day turns to night.
Bad Egg: 1 Ropemaker Street, badegg.london; C****oya: 118 Piccadilly, coyarestaurant.com
And something more traditional…

Scrambled eggs and smoked salmon. Photograph courtesy of Berners Tavern
An elegant complement to the London Edition hotel, Mr Jason Atherton’s Berners Tavern has fast established itself as one of central London’s top spots for a power meeting. Below grandiose chandeliers and walls laden with artwork, the capital’s big hitters can choose from a compelling brunch menu stacked with British classics including oak-smoked salmon and scrambled eggs and a luxurious take on the full English.
No less impressive a setting is the Sea Containers on the Thames. The recently launched menu celebrates the American brunch tradition through a series of immaculate transatlantic dishes – think fluffy buttermilk waffles, crab omelettes and Reuben sandwiches – to accompany views of St Pauls (and overzealous morning joggers).
Berners Tavern: 10 Berners Street, bernerstavern.com; Sea Containers: 20 Upper Ground, seacontainersrestaurant.com
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