THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Yo Hosoyamada
Tokyo is a city of extremes. It is now the largest metropolis in the world, a forest of glassy skyscrapers, inner-city temples and hidden ramen shops, not to mention some of the best menswear on the planet. A short walk around Shibuya will leave even the most style-conscious man from elsewhere feeling entirely underdressed. It’s no surprise then that MR PORTER stocks so many Japanese brands.
As Japan continues to top many travel bucket lists, a few of our favourite Japanese experts (and experts on the country) divulge their ideas on what we can learn from life in the Japanese capital, and beyond.
01.
Enjoy your own company
“People [in Tokyo] just don’t worry about doing something on their own and it doesn’t feel weird because everyone’s doing it,” says Kaori Oyama, a Tokyo-based producer who used to work for Beams in London – and is more than happy to go solo dining. “You can go to the cinema or go and eat ramen and not have to wait for someone to come with you.”
02.
Find your inner otaku
One thing the Japanese have mastered is how to have an overly specific hobby – and we’re not just talking anime and manga. “There are so many galleries and museums dedicated to some unbelievable niches,” says journalist Paul McInnes, former senior editor of Tokyo Weekender magazine, who has lived in the city since 2000. “Tobacco & Salt Museum, Meguro Parasitological Museum, ramen museums, cup ramen museums!” It’s testament to Japan’s all-in approach when it comes to doing something you love. So, if you have a passion, no matter how individual, this is your cue to follow it.
03.
Get out in nature and in tune with the seasons
“Japan’s connection to nature is a deep and integral part of its cultural heritage,” says Max Mackee, the British-Japanese founder of Kammui, an outdoors-focused travel platform (founded alongside Japanese streetwear legend Hiroshi Fujiwara). “Japanese indigenous beliefs held that spirits reside in all natural objects that must be respected and revered.”
The four seasons are taken particularly seriously, in everything from food to decorations. “Japanese are very keen on seasonal ingredients, from fruits in summer to the oden, which pervades every konbini [store] during autumn and winter,” McInnes says. “Even the beer-can designs receive an update such as [featuring] the cherry blossom in late March and April.”
04.
Be mindful of every moment
“Japanese culture has always valued the state of ‘mindfulness’,” Mackee says. “This shows up in various parts of Japanese culture, from traditional Buddhist meditation practices, to the consideration and respect shown to others.
“It’s not difficult to take responsibility for our own surroundings”
“Japanese food always has a range of different dishes, so you can eat a lot of different types of food in one meal,” says the creative producer Emily Lucas, who grew up in Tokyo. “Japanese breakfast alone often offers more vegetables and nutrition than the average Western meal. I particularly enjoy the element of slow living and taking the time to sit down and enjoy a proper meal in the morning.”
You only have to drop into a Japanese convenience store to appreciate how seriously the country takes consumer choice when it comes to tasty treats. “Convenience stores (konbini) best embody Japan’s unique lifestyle and culture,” the legendary streetwear designer and KENZO artistic director Nigo recently said after also being appointed the creative director of the FamilyMart chain of shops.
05.
Revel in variety – and breakfast
06.
Don’t answer your phone in public
Next time your phone rings in a crowded area, consider hitting mute. “Public phone calls are a big no-no in Japan and on the train and bus you’ll often hear announcements warning against it,” Lucas says. “This is a courtesy to other people – no one wants to hear your phone chat, especially first thing in the morning on the way to work.”
07.
Take your trash home
One of the main things the rest of the world can learn from Japanese culture? “Cleanliness,” says Kylie Clark, a consultant and specialist in all things Japan. “Japanese sports fans have become known for cleaning up stadiums after matches, and one of the many things that strikes visitors to Japan is how clean it is. It’s not difficult to take responsibility for our own trash and surroundings.”
08.
Elevate your bathing routine
“We always bathe at night, so that your sheets stay clean,” says Taka Miyake, founder of Tokyo-based skincare brand euer. Public bathing is also big in Japan, which is why you’ll find so many onsen, or hot springs, across the country. A good skincare and haircare routine when bathing is a must, and not just for hygiene reasons. “It’s not only cleaning your own body, but cleaning your mental state and your soul as well,” Miyake says.
09.
Become a Konmari minimalist
“People don’t generally get to live in spacious apartments, especially in Tokyo, so people think more minimalist here,” Miyake says. He references Marie Kondo, known here as Konmari, the minimal cleanliness expert known for vapourising anything that doesn’t “spark joy”. It’s a clever way to stay clutter-free. “We can’t live in wide spaces, so we know how to live in a small space,” Miyake says.
10.
Take care of your belongings
“If we buy a great pair of shoes or even a knife, [we] mend it as we use it, and maintain it,” Oyama says. “People are really good at being respectful for things.”
11.
Be reliable
Japan might not be as punctual as its reputation suggests (“My friends are always late to meet me,” Oyama says). But people generally keep their promises. “If you call a plumber, they’ll come in immediately,” she adds. “It’s not always the case, but generally in Japan, people care more about other people’s time.”
12.
Get into washoku
Traditional Japanese food, known as washoku, is some of the healthiest in the world. “We study about healthy eating and nutrition at school and we learn cooking from six years old,” Kodo Nishimura, a Buddhist monk, LGBTQIA+ activist and the author of This Monk Wears Heels, says. From onigiri (rice balls) to soba (buckwheat noodles), there are plenty of washoku staples that are easy to find globally and make nutritious additions to any diet. “My recommendation is to replace soda with iced green tea,” Nishimura says.
13.
Drink sake with pizza
“Try a junmai-style sake with pizza,” says Clark, who is a certified sake sommelier. “The umami in the tomatoes and cheese are a great match with the umami in sake.” She has more useful sake-pairing tips, too: “For light fish dishes, mussels, or oysters, try a sparkling sake or a fruity junmai daiginjo. Red wine drinkers should look for the words kimoto and yamahai on the label, as sakes made using these traditional production methods tend to be bold and complex.”
14.
Always bring back a gift
Never show up empty-handed after a trip. “I am a big fan of the Japanese custom of buying local food and drink when travelling, otherwise known as omiyage,” Clark says. “I’ve adopted this custom on a more personal scale, seeking out things to bring home to support local producers whenever I travel – like yuzu kosho from Japan.”
15.
Always hand in lost property
Everyone’s heard the stories – you drop your wallet in Tokyo and it finds its way back to you without a single yen missing, at least most of the time. “You just can’t lose your stuff in Japan,” Miyake says. “People pick it up and hand it to the police station, even your phone and wallet. It’s about having respect for another person’s things.”