THE JOURNAL

Illustration by Mr Francesco Ciccolella
If you experience irritation, itchiness, redness and discomfort when trying out new products, then congratulations, you’re probably on the sensitive skin spectrum. Even better news: this is only likely to get worse in the colder months. But, have no fear – with a few clever complexion-saving tips, you should be able to prevent your skin from cracking open this winter. From the best way to protect your skin barrier to the ingredients to avoid, we sought some expert advice on how to care for a complexion that’s prone to tantrums.
01.
Go back to basics
“When caring for sensitive skin, I always say take it back to the basics,” says Dr Shereene Idriss, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Idriss Dermatology in NYC. “In your skincare routine, the only products you really need are a basic cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen.” Of course, you can add in a serum, a mask or an oil, but if your skin is going through an irritation or a reactive phase, returning to those three pillars will help in calming it down.
To start, EISENBERG PARIS’ cleanser is a worthy pick as it’s gentle enough for sensitive skin, with soothing wheat protein and ginseng, and also doubles as a shaving cream. And for a soothing daily moisturiser, try Sisley’s Velvet Nourishing Cream, which is formulated with nourishing oils – or Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Face Cream Light, made with panthenol and vitamin E, if your skin tends oily. Dr Idriss also suggests looking for products that are approved for eczema-prone skin, as they’re tailormade for taking care of irritation.
Proud owner of a beard? Make sure you’re still taking care of the skin underneath, Dr Idriss says. “It’s often ignored, and inflammatory conditions can occur without notice.” Gently washing your beard along with the rest of your face is key. Keep the skin underneath your beard moisturised, but not too moisturised as your hair is also producing oils.
02.
Protect, protect, protect
Protecting and strengthening your skin barrier (ie, the outermost layer of the skin) is crucial for any sensitivities, especially during the winter months. When the skin is exposed to colder temperatures and lower humidity, it can become dry, red and flaky and thus more prone to irritation. “In the colder months, I love layering a thick moisturiser to protect the skin barrier from environmental aggressors,” Dr Idriss says. She recommends looking for products that are formulated with panthenol – “a great hydrating ingredient” – as well as centella asiatica and zinc, which can soothe redness.
Sun protection is also fundamental all year round, says Harley Street surgeon and 111SKIN founder Dr Yannis Alexandrides, especially for sensitive types, which are more vulnerable to UV rays. And of course, the more broken or inflamed your skin barrier, the more prone you are to sunburn, pigmentation and further damage, setting off a vicious cycle. Fragrance-free mineral formulas, which contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as the active ingredient, are less likely to provoke irritation than chemical sunscreens. Try Salt & Stone’s SPF30 Sunscreen Lotion, which offers high protection without the sting.
03.
Know what to avoid
If you’re easily irritated, Dr Idriss suggests avoiding a number of ingredients that can cause skin to become more reactive. First up, fragrance, which can trigger irritation and a burning feeling on the skin. Second, alcohols, which can dry out the skin. Steer clear of foaming cleansers, too, specifically those formulated with sodium lauryl sulfate, as these can strip the skin of its natural oils and potentially irritate it. And avoid products that contain “tingling agents”, such as peppermint and menthol, for obvious reasons.
For a safe bet, try Dr. Barbara Sturm. Not only does the line eschew alcohols and fragrance; it’s also packed full of soothing ingredients such as panthenol, skullcap and purslane, which calm down inflammation, as well as shea butter and squalane that nourish the skin.
04.
Identify your irritants
“There are a number of things that can make skin sensitive, from environmental factors to genetics to the products you use,” Dr Alexandrides says. Cold temperatures, sun exposure, pollution, heating and even air conditioners are common aggravators. Seeing a dermatologist, aesthetician or skincare specialist to tackle what can cause irritation to your skin would be highly beneficial in minimising its sensitivity. “Not knowing the right cause and using homemade remedies and incorrect products can worsen sensitive skin,” he adds. And if you’re considering doing a facial treatment to tackle your sensitivity, Dr Alexandrides suggests IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) DYE-VL. “It can help take down redness and calm inflamed and reactive skin, especially if someone suffers from rosacea.”
Dr Idriss also recommends approaching new products with caution – even those that are designed for volatile skin types. “If your skin is sensitive, you should be patch-testing every single new product to see how it reacts before applying to your face.” And while it’s tempting to try out every new launch that promises to soothe or treat sensitivity, too much hopping about can overwhelm skin and make it tricky to identify your triggers.
“Give your skin time to adjust,” Dr Idriss says. Introduce one product at a time – if your skin has an immediate bad reaction, take a note of the ingredients; if it doesn’t, give it a few weeks and then add in another product.
05.
Opt for milder exfoliators
These days, chemical exfoliants are considered a more sophisticated alternative to scrubs, as they are less abrasive, penetrate the skin’s inner layers and exfoliate deeper. Still, it is generally advised that you shouldn’t be exfoliating more than three times a week, and if your skin is especially sensitive, you should avoid overdoing it. “If you’re using exfoliating acids, start with a low percentage and maybe only exfoliate targeted areas of your face,” Dr Idriss says. “And keep exfoliation to a minimum of one to two times a week.”
Glycolic and salicylic acids are powerhouse ingredients for retexturising the skin – however, if you have sensitive skin, they might be too aggressive and you can end up with a broken barrier. “I would recommend lactic or mandelic acid peels in clinic and for exfoliating at home,” Dr Alexandrides says. Lactic and mandelic acids are the gentlest of the alphahydroxy acids (AHAs), so they offer exfoliation without being too harsh on the skin.
“For at home use, 111SKIN’s Rose Quartz Exfoliating Mask has a gentle blend of AHAs,” Dr Alexandrides says. And because it’s a wash-off mask, not a serum or toner, it offers a milder form of exfoliation as the active ingredients don’t linger longer than needed.
06. Treat wisely
And if you get a bad reaction? “A visit to your GP, dermatologist or medical aesthetician may be necessary to get a prescription product,” says Dr Alexandrides. “If your skin feels very dry and tight, you can always apply a repairing cream throughout the day to lock in moisture.” To speed up recovery, it’s wise to avoid activities in extreme conditions, such as skiing, and at the gym, best to skip the swimming pool (chlorine will sting), the sauna and the steam room.
Avoid the temptation to touch your face when it’s in a delicate state, and when cleansing, stick with lukewarm water. Finally, Dr Alexandrides recommends 111SKIN’s Y Theorem Repair Serum, which has a patented formula of healing ingredients used by astronauts to protect their skin, including calming aloe and calendula, plus scar-healing aminocaproic acid.