It is often said that you can tell a lot about a man by the shoes he wears. So how does that reflect on the male of our species in 2019, who are today, by and large, swerving classic footwear models such as the Oxford or even the Derby in favour of the running sneaker? True, we all have places to be, and as life gathers pace at an unprecedented rate, we are at least dressed for it. But can a pair of Flyknits ever be at one with a suit? One MR PORTER reader hopes to find out. Here, then, we set out to get you up to speed with the trend, with tips on how to move with the times rather than look distinctly, well, pedestrian.

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Suits and sneakers?

From @moabash, via Instagram

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An even more succinct answer to a rather brief question: emphatically yes.

Hoping for more? OK, here goes. In the current climate – and we’re talking sartorial rather than meteorological here (although as temperatures rise and polar bears run rampant, breathable, athletic footwear wouldn’t go amiss) – wearing sneakers with a suit is not only acceptable, but encouraged. As institutions from Goldman Sachs to the British Parliament unbutton their dress codes and loosen their ties, the sight of tailored officewear paired with sneakers is no longer met with the shock it once was.

Sure, not every workplace (or, indeed, wedding or funeral) is quite ready for the Triple S, but, in the right context, pared-back sneakers will sit comfortably beneath most suit trousers. Here, Common Projects leads the charge, although many names more familiar to the highest tiers of business now offer their own take on the trend – TOM FORD, Brunello Cucinelli and John Lobb, notably. Given that you’re even asking the question, we’ll presume that your employers are less forgiving than most, so these brands present a good place to start.

Once you’re feeling further emboldened, we’d go as far as saying that the retro-tinged running shoe lends itself best to an unstructured suit, as repeatedly demonstrated by Messrs Carlos Castillo and Jorge Navares, the hirsute duo behind Spanish tailoring brand MAN 1924, and their respect for the work of New Balance. (See also the photo above.)

But to focus purely on the footwear is to miss the bigger picture. As the world moves away from the trussed-up Mad Men-like precision of a decade ago, the suit itself has learnt to take it easy. This season’s tailoring is more relaxed, with the boxy silhouette championed, as with the ugly-sneaker trend, by the likes of Balenciaga offering a man more room to breathe. Add to this the bohemian swagger pushed by Sies Marjan, P. Johnson and Saman Amel that’s currently breezing through menswear, and it becomes clear that the traditional suit is edging away from the boardroom and ever closer towards board shorts. (And for a masterclass in this last point, see Mr Pharrell Williams at numerous award ceremonies over the past five years.)

Even in London’s Mayfair, where tailors have stood for centuries inured to the whims of fashion, the times are a-changing. As we reported earlier this year, should you drop into Mr Charlie Casely-Hayford’s bespoke workshop on Chiltern Street, the tailor will be able to cut a suit to fit not just your footwear but a particular model of choice, whether it be a Northampton-shod double monk-strap or a deadstock Air Force 1.

To get you off on the right foot, we suggest you watch this video guide, which offers a straightforward gateway into the world of suits and sneakers. From there, it’s only a hop, skip and a jump to teaming a Thom Sweeney three-piece with a pair of Huaraches. Well, maybe.