Three Smart (Not Puffy) Ways To Style A Gilet

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Three Smart (Not Puffy) Ways To Style A Gilet

Words by Ms Molly Isabella Smith | Photography by Mr Arthur J Comely | Styling by Ms Sophie Hardcastle

30 January 2024

Do you remember what happened when Tom Wambsgans wore an impressively puffy gilet in Succession? Suffice to say, eliciting jibes such as “What’s it stuffed with? Your hopes and dreams?”, even if they do come from your sociopathic (the likeable kind, ya know?) brother-in-law, isn’t really the look you should be aiming for. All of which is to say that many have tried to wear a gilet – an undeniably practical and sophisticated piece of kit – fewer succeed stylishly. The first thing to note is that, unlike Tom, you should opt for minimal padding or quilting when picking out a gilet, especially if you plan on layering it with everyday casual or smart looks. As for the rest, we can help with that. Here are three ways to get it right.

Yes, yes, we know we just said that a gilet is a practical choice. But consider this suede beauty from Drake’s an exception to that rule (because, you know, suede and rain are not friends). We promise it makes up for it, though. With some sartorial sorcery, this piece manages to elevate any casual look, such as these tried-and-true blue Saman Amel jeans. No, you shouldn’t even think about wearing this gilet if there’s even a hint of grey cloud in the sky, but the plush shearling lining will hold its own in colder temps. The rich brown hue also pairs well with pops of brighter colours, hence the orange Shetland wool sweater and green bandana also from Drake’s. Top it off with a cashmere beanie from The Elder Statesman and – congrats – you’ve perfected a winning weekend look.

If you think Italian men’s style is all expertly tailored linen suits and pleated trousers… well, you’re only half right. There’s an everyday version that’s every bit as sophisticated as its smarter counterparts. To achieve it, turn to the one and only Brunello Cucinelli, an impossibly sophisticated slow brand with a humanistic approach to its craft. “Versatility” is always high on the list when we’re describing the designer’s pieces and this navy gilet more than earns it. With just the right amount of padding, the slightly sporty navy style layers comfortably over chunky knits, in this case, a sumptuous cashmere rollneck from fellow Italian label Valstar. For a touch more texture, a pair of cords in a neutral tone finishes things off – and yes, they’re pleated. Naturally.

What do you get when you mix equal parts utility and technical pieces, with just a dash of modern military style? Well, it looks a little like this – which is to say, an outfit that feels entirely effortless yet completely considered. Huh, how did we manage that, you may ask? The base layer is the key. We’ve chosen a streamlined, no-frills khaki gilet from Sunspel (again, note the minimal padding). It’s made from 100 per cent cotton so it’s naturally hard-wearing, but still lightweight. Here, it’s layered atop a simple SSAM cashmere polo shirt, which is smart and snug. Then we added a pair of tailored wool drawstring trousers with subtle military detailing in a traditional basketweave fabric (thanks, Monitaly). The outer layer – a water-resistant number from technical superbrand Stone Island – serves as both a protective cocoon from the elements and the piece that brings it all together.

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