THE JOURNAL

From left: Kendrick Lamar performing at the Super Bowl Halftime Show in New Orleans, 9 February 2025. Photograph by Gregory Shamus/Getty Images. Benson Boone at the Twisters premiere in Los Angeles, 11 July 2024. Photograph by Michael Buckner/Variety via Getty Images. Pharrell Williams at the Sacai AW25 show in Paris, 26 January 2025. Photograph by Jacopo Raule/Getty Images. Timothée Chalamet at the Berlinale in Berlin, 14 February 2025. Photograph by Stefanie Loos/AFP via Getty Images
Kendrick Lamar made some serious waves at the Super Bowl this February. Hopping on the bonnet of a vintage Buick, the Compton-born rapper, who was styled by Taylor McNeill, sported a pair of bootcut jeans by CELINE HOMME, teamed with a varsity jacket and Nike sneakers. Following the performance, which drew in a record-breaking 133.5 million viewers, Google Trends showed that bootcut jeans saw a significant upswing in terms of searches.
Bootcuts actually go way back to the 1870s, when they found their form and function. It was then, originally influenced by the naval-cut trousers of the 1850s, that Levi’s began making men’s jeans that were looser at the shins and ankles to allow room for cowboy boots.
The jeans found their calling in the 1960s and 1970s thanks to hippies, who wore wide-leg bell-bottoms while spreading good vibes. At the same time, the likes of Yves Saint Laurent, Bob Mackie and Serge Gainsbourg made pooling jeans a part of their uniforms. The flare became associated with the eccentricity of dandies, as exhibited in Malick Sidibé’s portraits from the mid-1960s and Samuel Fosso’s photographs of the 1970s.
But bootcuts and flares fell to the wayside, becoming inherently uncool in the 2010s. Enter the viral Tumblr account JeansAndSheuxsss, which threw shade at people wearing jeans – almost always bootcut – with formal shoes. It all but sounded the death knell for bootcuts and they became a marque of older generations striving to relive their sartorial heyday.
Now, thanks to Lamar’s backing, bootcut jeans appear to be having a moment. But for anyone who has been observing the state of men’s fashion for some time, this won’t come as a surprise. This cut has been doing the rounds for the past couple of seasons, steadily plotting its comeback.
“The all-Americana and western heritage aesthetic created an opening for the bootcut to come back”
Lamar’s own jeans were actually first seen in 2019, as part of Hedi Slimane’s SS20 collection for CELINE HOMME, while Alessandro Michele was an early advocate for the style during his tenure at Gucci.
Adrien Communier, style editor at GQ France, puts this rippling resurgence down to the influence of Pharrell Williams. “I think his AW24 show for Louis Vuitton was a turning point in bringing back bootcut jeans on a mainstream level.” Indeed, Williams himself has been an avid wearer of boot cut jeans of gargantuan proportions.
Just take a look at the streets of London, New York and Paris and you’ll see that guys – those with a heightened interest in fashion, who carry their cigarettes in vintage tin trays – have been wearing bootcut jeans in recent years. “The all-Americana and western heritage aesthetic combined with a never-ending interest of vintage fashion created an opening for the bootcut to come back,” Communier says.
Of course, Lamar and McNeill have demonstrated that they look equally good with sportswear. Sneakers, a sports jacket, a generous amount of bling and a backwards cap gave the bootcut a cooler 2025 spin. Timothée Chalamet, who is also styled by the aforementioned McNeill, wears his flares baggy and loose, pairing them with his signature scarves and striped tees. Williams, meanwhile, has been spotted styling his light-wash, generously flared jeans with a chore jacket, baseball cap and “dad” sneakers.
“There’s something about how they fall that feels nonchalant, masculine and carefree”
Elsewhere, the singer-songwriter Benson Boone has really run with the trending cowboy aesthetic, sporting bootcut jeans hoisted up with chunky western hardware belts. Holly White, stylist of Joe Locke, Luke Newton and Corey Mylchreest, is all for bootcut jeans. “I haven’t got them on anyone yet, but I’m dying to,” she says. “They can be super flattering and chic on many silhouettes.”
Her advice is to add a boot and shirt to lean into the “cowboycore” vibe or go “retro, à la Kendrick Lamar”. If you’re still somewhat daunted by the silhouette, a fine knit, leather jacket and Chelsea boots will keep things low-key enough to still feel like “you” while debuting your bootcuts.
For those who are all in, look to hype brands such as AMIRI and ERL, who have been pushing bootcut silhouettes down the catwalk. Meanwhile, cult labels from KAPITAL to Our Legacy have put them at the forefront of their seasonal drops.
Multidisciplinary artist Andrew Georgiades, a regular at fashion week and avid shopper, is all for bootcut jeans. “There’s something about how bootcut jeans fall on your footwear that feels nonchalant, masculine, lived-in and carefree,” he says. “While being harder to style, done correctly, they can add sex appeal to your outfit.”
Communier believes that the upward trajectory of the flare will continue. “For the past years, menswear was centred around trousers that were large and oversized, but the silhouette is slowly coming back to something more fitted with the bootcut flare at the bottom.” Do with this information what you will.