The Difference Between Quartz And Mechanical Watches

Link Copied

5 MINUTE READ

The Difference Between Quartz And Mechanical Watches

Words by Mr Alex Doak

25 September 2019

The quartz watch

Forgetting about the devastation it wrought on the Swiss industry and the purist snubs for a moment, let’s just pause to remind ourselves what an extraordinary thing the quartz watch is. For a start, it was the only major horological breakthrough of the 20th century. And it still makes up three-quarters of Switzerland’s now rehabilitated industry exports, while accounting for less than a fifth of those exports’ value – an extraordinary economy of scale that gets you a Swiss-made watch for an average of £175, which keeps time to an accuracy of 10 seconds a year, as opposed to a watch for £1,600 that loses or gains four or five seconds a day.

Today’s quartz watches are powered by a lithium battery, which feeds into an integrated electronic circuit, printed onto a silicon wafer, and in turn the movement’s regulatory heart, a tiny U-shaped quartz crystal, etched by photolithography from the raw material. Seiko grows its own quartz lozenges in-house, from seed crystal, inside towering, Alien-like autoclaves.

The circuit consists of 15 binary division stages that reduce the quartz’s resonating frequency of 32,768Hz to 1Hz. This one-second pulse activates a stepping motor, which gives out that classic tick, tick, tick as it powers the geartrain and hands.

The mechanical watch

We hardly need sell you on the unbridled joys of a mechanical watch. Or justify the hefty price tag for that matter. It is a vital piece of European history, which literally lives on your wrist. You yourself are breathing life into its ticking heartbeat with every gesture of your arm (if it’s an automatic with a spinning, self-winding rotor) or every morning when you pick it up from the nightstand and lovingly wind it up (if it’s a manual).

Furthermore, its open-source technology – never obsolete, always repairable – means that it will tick for ever, on the wrists of your offspring and theirs. A mechanical watch gives you the best cost per wear of your entire wardrobe.

Instead of a lithium battery, the powerhouse is a spring, made of cobalt-nickel-chromium alloy, coiled tightly inside a barrel. As it unwinds, the toothed circumference of its housing drives the geartrain, precisely ratioed, like in quartz watches, to drive the hours, minutes and seconds hands.

Left to unwind naturally, the hands would whizz around in a blur for 10 seconds before things came to an abrupt halt. What stops this happening is the escapement at the other end of the geartrain, which ekes out the flow of power over 40 or so hours (when you’ll need to rewind the mainspring).

The equivalent of the resonating quartz and integrated circuit, the escapement consists of a rocking, anchor-shaped lever, which alternately locks and unlocks the gears, allowing the mainspring’s power to escape gradually.

What regulates how regularly this locking and unlocking action happens (generally four times a second, as opposed to quartz’s 32,768) is the wristwatch’s equivalent of a swinging pendulum, a brass balance wheel that hangs from a flexible balance spring. The wheel oscillates back and forth by 270°, flicking the tip of the anchor lever left, then right, then left, then right.

A mechanical watch movement is like a finely tuned performance-car engine running at full tilt, 24/7. Like a car, it needs oils to run smoothly, oils that eventually harden and start acting like an abrasive. So, while it’s easy to pop a new battery into your quartz watch every few years, it’s just as crucial to get your mechanical watch serviced once in a while, even if things seem to be ticking over just fine.

Illustration by Mr Thomas Pullin