THE JOURNAL

The East Beach next to Cape Weligama Hotel. Photograph courtesy of Cape Weligama
While rightly renowned for its stunning beaches, the scenic south Asian island of Sri Lanka also lays claim to an extraordinarily diverse landscape with breathtaking natural parks, verdant rice and tea plantations, spectacular ancient ruins and an impressive array of sacred Buddhist sites. In the nine years since the end of its bitter Civil War, development has gathered pace. Internal travel routes have been refreshed and reopened and Sri Lankan-owned boutique hospitality businesses have launched, including sophisticated eco-hotels, which provide a contemporary contrast to its colonial past.
The celebrated chef and restaurateur Mr Karam Sethi, with his siblings Mr Jyotin Sethi and Ms Sunaina Sethi, forms JKS Restaurants, which is responsible for some of the best-loved Indian restaurants in London. In addition to Trishna, Gymkhana and Brigadiers, the trend-setting restaurant group also has Hoppers on its books, a wildly popular Sri Lankan creation, born of Mr Sethi’s devotion to the heady flavours of the isle’s fragrant, spice cooking. Dishes are inspired by Sri Lanka’s rich culinary history as a melting pot of Malaysian, Portuguese, Dutch, English and Arabic influences, and further inspired by its signature roadside dining shacks. A frequent visitor to the island nation, for research and pleasure, Mr Sethi shares his tips on how to make the most of a Sri Lankan adventure.
Where to stay
Cape Weligama

Wild Coast Tented Lodge. Photograph courtesy of Wild Coast Tented Lodge
“Sri Lanka has some of the best hotels on the sub-continent, the warmth of its hospitality and generosity of its people are unmatched. I usually head to Cape Weligama for its magnificent panoramas. Meanwhile, the Wild Coast Tented Lodge, next door to Yala National Park, showcases untapped wilderness at its best. Expect to see leopards, elephants and the rarest birds. If time allows, I try also to squeeze in a stay at the Norwood Bungalow, a charmingly restored tea planters’ residence set in the middle of 2,000 acres.”
Where to have breakfast
The Galle Face Hotel
“As one of Sri Lanka’s oldest colonial hotels, The Galle Face Hotel in Colombo, otherwise known as south Asia’s grande dame, brims over with heritage. During breakfast at its Verandah restaurant, fill up on freshly made, crisp ‘hoppers’ and all the curries.”
Where to lunch
Dutch Burgher Union
“The VOC Cafe at the Dutch Burgher Union in Colombo is a great place to experience the bold Dutch flavours that influence Sri Lankan food. Don’t miss the lamprais (a banana leaf-wrapped ‘packet’ of rice and meat) and the black pork curry.”
Where to go for a drink
Mount Lavinia Hotel

The terrace at Mount Lavinia Hotel. Photograph courtesy of Mount Lavinia
“Watch the sun disappear into the Indian Ocean over cocktails on the terrace at the historic Mount Lavinia Hotel in Colombo.”
Where to have dinner
Upali’s
“Every time I go back, I notice new restaurants and food concepts. Still, it will always be difficult to beat a home-cooked spread, and Upali’s seems to be the only place that locals will eat their own cuisine outside the home. It’s that good. Its mutton varuval, a dry-fried, south Indian curry, is my favourite.”
What to see
Galle Fort

View of the fortification wall, Meera Mosque and the lighthouse, Galle Fort. Photograph by Mr Peter Giovannini/Alamy
“Originally built by the Portuguese, Galle Fort is now a Unesco World Heritage Site, and home to some of the hippest hotels, restaurants and shops. For more bucolic entertainment, Lunuganga, the late Sri Lankan architect Mr Geoffrey Bawa’s beautiful country home, has a magical garden.”
What to do
“Sri Lanka has so much more to offer than beautiful beaches, so aim to experience a range of culture, wildlife, adventure and food across the island. If you’re adventurous enough, you can quickly cover a lot of ground. Take in the Golden Valley of Ceylon Tea or visit the ancient Buddhist temples and Sinhalese ruins within the Cultural Triangle. On my next trip, I’ll be jumping on the Yal Devi Queen of Jaffna train from Colombo, which snakes through heritage cities and once-forbidden lands en route to Jaffna.”