What makes Japanese, Italian and British tailoring? Around the world in jackets and trousers.

For nearly a century, the lounge suit has been the international uniform for formally dressed men. From Tokyo to Tegucigalpa, Paris to Paraguay and London to Louisiana, men have worn matching jackets and trousers cut to a design that bears close resemblance to the suits first created on Mayfair’s Savile Row. However, despite the garment’s global relevance, there have long been intriguing geographical variations. Even though many tailoring brands now enjoy an international clientele, the best of them remain rooted in their local culture. Here we present a whistle-stop tour of the world’s tailoring hubs, and the characteristics that make them unique.

While the Japanese famously acknowledge the suit’s British origins through their use of the word sebiro (note the aural similarity to Savile Row), many of their tailored clothes are influenced by US styles. There is even a bespoke tailor in Tokyo that specialises in the style of dress from the American Mad Men era, a fashion epoch that had a profound influence on Japanese style. As such expect soft shoulders, little waist suppression, three buttons on jackets, plenty of grey fabric, and some seersucker. Combine the tailoring with a white shirt, a slim knit tie and conjure the mid-century vibe with Mr Miles Davis on the stereo.

The world of Italian tailoring presents a broad spectrum of styles, just as that wonderful country encompasses a wide range of cuisines. The sober styles favoured by the tailors of Northern Italy, as worn by the late industrialist Mr Gianni Agnelli, contrast with the baroque flourishes exhibited by the current crop of Neapolitan tailors (meanwhile, Florentine tailoring has its own distinct look). What they share is a playful attitude towards the use of patterned fabrics, an appealing tradition of handwork, and a contemporary understanding that jackets need to feel soft and light to be comfortable. Expect great colours, particularly the blues, luxurious fabrics and gently contemporary styles. Want to get in the mood? Try a trip to an art gallery to see some renaissance-era masterpieces – Italy’s genius is its sense of tradition.

Given that France and Italy, share a border it’s remarkable how much their tailoring cultures differ. French tailoring, which in reality means Parisian tailoring, has a unique level of refinement. Over the years, many menswear brands have described their clothes as masculine couture, which borrows a word from the highest expressions of hand-made women’s fashion, but this only feels right in a Parisian context, where the attention to detail is so exquisite. In style terms, expect a long, elegant silhouette, slender lapels and a hint of rock-star attitude, although in recent years there has been a broad adoption of a more casual aesthetic, albeit one that’s unusually chic. Try a jacket over a fine-knit sweater, or even a T-shirt, and maybe look into buying a vintage Citroën SM coupé for another dose of inimitably Gallic style.

The country that gave the world the symbol of respectability that is the suit continues to rejoice in a distinctly no-nonsense approach to formal masculine style. The best British suits retain a sturdiness that is a useful virtue in office attire (and in the country’s climate), and chimes with the longevity of their design – a single-breasted navy-blue suit has been business-appropriate for almost 100 years. The blazer, or sports jacket, is another unimpeachably British bit of kit and, whether it’s made from Irish linen, cashmere or Scottish tweed, is superbly versatile. Dress it up for the office with a pair of wool trousers or neat chinos, or dress it down with slim blue jeans. Either way accessorise it with an umbrella or an overcoat to keep out the British weather.

It’s easy to associate American style with informality. The country changed the world when, after WWII, its teenagers started to wear blue jeans, and has changed it again with the near-universal adoption of the sweat suit. However, it also has a recognisable tailoring tradition. This is known as Ivy League style (also the inspiration behind Take Ivy, a famous Japanese book dedicated to the subject), and in tailoring terms it takes the form of soft-shouldered grey “sack” suits, blue single-breasted blazers, and, in the summer, suits and jackets made from seersucker or madras-check cotton. The effect is relatively casual, highly comfortable and quietly distinctive. It’s a look that continues to inform the work of Mr Thom Browne and is indelibly associated with the work of Mr Ralph Lauren (although he also loves European tailoring). Whether you prefer Mr Lauren’s traditional take on American style, or Mr Browne’s contemporary spin, a button-down Oxford-cloth shirt is a vital part of the look.

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