When it comes to the so-called “dad shoe” wave, the New Balance 990 is heralded above all others as the precursor, setting the design mould for countless models that would follow its release in 1982. Bolstered by the instantly recognisable “N” branding on the sidewall, the silhouette has stood the test of time through consistent evolution that has always ensured the integrity of the original.

Looking back over the rich history of the 990, some may be surprised that the silhouette gripped the market the way it did, the now iconic grey colouring offering a stark contrast to the bright neons of 1980s running shoes. It was released in the same year as Nike’s Air Force 1, one of the biggest selling sneakers of all time, and, other than its style, the main thing that separated the two was the price tag. More than often cited as the first sneaker to hit the market with a $100 price point – considered a small fortune at the time – the OG 990 was developed with serious runners in mind. This higher-than-average pricing, in turn, increased the allure of the silhouette among sneakerheads and casual fans, establishing New Balance’s latest creation as somewhat of a status symbol.

To reach cult status so early on was no mean feat, and certainly not to be overlooked. It was the culmination of many factors, but the role played by tastemakers in Washington DC, Maryland, Virginia (known collectively as “the DMV”) cannot go unnoticed – much like New York’s affinity for the AF1. Whereas their counterparts in the Big Apple took a more flamboyant approach to fashion and luxury, the moneymakers of the DMV kept things low-key, making the greyscale 990 and high-end price tag the perfect complement to any outfit. It managed to do something quite extraordinary, to say a lot while saying nothing at all, and this captivated generations.

But it was the arrival of the remodelled, bulkier v4 that really cemented the legacy. Hype reached new levels, marrying perfectly with New Balance’s fresh commitment to collaboration, by celebrating the area’s brand loyalty with exclusive colourways and collabs, such as the YCMC x New Balance 990v4 DMV exclusive and DTLR x New Balance 990v4 “DMV”. From the 1980s onwards, the role of these tastemakers in the success of the model remained true, as the 990 series hit the streets on the feet of DMV-natives-turned-international-stars, such as Lil Uzi Vert and Fat Trel.

It is this intense loyalty that shaped the 990’s strong foothold within street culture. The silhouette has infiltrated the fashion industry’s biggest brand names, helping to shape the current dad-shoe wave as a whole. With both feet firmly planted within the minds of several generations, New Balance has achieved an unexpected consumer diversity, with different iterations of the 990 gracing the feet of Messrs Steve Jobs, Dave East, Jürgen Klopp and Kawhi Leonard, as well as supermodels in London and dads in Ohio.

Born and designed with a simple goal and the running community in mind, the now-classic style and commitment to evolution have enabled the 990 series to remain relevant. With each collaboration and update, New Balance beckons more to experience a sense of nostalgia and pride with every step, with no intention of fading away any time soon.